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Esprit Model . Thunder Power RC . Real Raptors

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e-Century Hummingbird - Swift > Century 3D Pro, hovering and motor temps
 
 
Dan Rogers
Heliman
Location: London, UK

Hi guys,

Just got myself a Hummingbird 3D Pro and I've set it up and got it hovering in my room. Couple of points I'd like to ask...

As I've got it set up it hovers pretty well at half stick (11.1v 1500mAh Li-Po), is that about right for this heli? I've got a non-computerised CCPM 6 channel radio so half stick is half stick in this case!

Also, the brushless motor (standard Century one with heatsink) gets pretty hot after a pack of hovering, too hot to hold a finger on it for more than 5sec or so. Is this normal and/or bad for the motor? I've cut out the canopy above the motor in the hope of getting some air cooling but it's still hot.

Cheers,

Dan
03-22-2006 Over year old.
 
 
cudaboy_71
Key Veteran
Location: sacramento, ca, u.s.

cant help you with the radio. don't know much about the non-computer ones---i'm guessing you cant set throttle and pitch curves, then??? (i like hover around 60% stick, with 0° at midstick.

as for the heat, did you take the label off the motor? the sink needs metal-to-metal contact to work properly.

it really shouldnt be getting that hot. what's your AUW?

if it ain't broke…break it.
03-22-2006 Over year old.
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
Greybird
Veteran
Location: Davie, Florida

I don' tknow 5 seconds is a long time. Temp might not be that bad.
03-22-2006 Over year old.
 
 
Dan Rogers
Heliman
Location: London, UK

Sorry, what's AUW?

I've just taken the sticker off and put some thermal paste between the motor and heatsink. I'll have another go on it this evening and test the temperature again.

It does feel a little hot to me, for example it's substantially hotter than the brushed motor in my V3 Hummingbird after one pack hovering. I know it's a more powerful motor but I assumed it was also more efficient so the heat output would be similar or maybe less.

Ta,

Dan
03-22-2006 Over year old.
 
 
cudaboy_71
Key Veteran
Location: sacramento, ca, u.s.

sorry AUW = all up weight

good idea taking off the label. but, be careful with the thermal paste. it's tricky stuff to get to work properly....if you just slop it on like toothpaste it'll run hotter than without. and, to apply it properly to a curved surface makes it even more difficult.

FWIW, thermal paste is a microscopic gap filler. you should only apply enough to create a microscopic film on the metal surfaces (both of them). then, when you create the contact between them, the metal still contacts metal, but the microscopic pits of the metal are filled in with the paste, thereby making a heat transfer contact where there was none before. if you create a barrier with the paste between the metal-metal contacts that are already existant, you will lose heat transfer.

hope that makes sense. and, sorry if you already knew that....but, i find many people who do not understand what the stuff is for and make things worse for themselves.

[edit]

in fact, here is an excellent writeup on how to properly apply thermal compound to a computer processor-heat sink interface. after reading through, you'll probably find that properly applying it to a motor-heatsink interface is nearly impossible or not worth the effort. that's my take anyway

good luck.

if it ain't broke…break it.
03-22-2006 Over year old.
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
sreuss
Senior Heliman
Location: Ontario, Canada

Half stick is good.

Essentially, whatever works for you is 'correct'. Once you get to wanting to do aerobatics, you'll likely need to move to a computer radio... and then we can talk again about getting a more appropriate setup.
03-22-2006 Over year old.
 
 
Dan Rogers
Heliman
Location: London, UK

AUW = 400g (approx. the scales I have look knackered)

I noticed that when I put the thermal paste on the motor in a thin layer, then slid the heatsink on and off a lot of the cicumfrence had clearly not been in contact with the paste as no paste had trasferred to the inside of the heatsink in some areas (if that makes any sense).

In order to get all round contact, I put a thicker layer on. Running it like this hasn't made a notecable difference to motor temperature, although I wasn't really expecting one (it's a pretty tiny heatsink area).

Not a great deal I can do I suppose, so it'll stay like that for now... I'm assuming nothing's wrong with the rest of the setup as the gearing feels free and I assume the speed controller (Castle Creations 10?) seems to be happy.

One other question- I can set the speed controller for constant RPM and then just use the pitch to vary the lift. Is this a better solution than having the speed tied directly to stick position?

Thanks,

Dan
03-22-2006 Over year old.
 
 
cudaboy_71
Key Veteran
Location: sacramento, ca, u.s.

Quote 
a lot of the cicumfrence had clearly not been in contact with the paste as no paste had trasferred to the inside of the heatsink in some areas (if that makes any sense).


makes sense...that your heat sink is essentially worthless at least it looks nice

Quote 
I put a thicker layer on. Running it like this hasn't made a notecable difference to motor temperature.


as you'd expect after reading that link i posted above. thermal transfer works best on metal to metal interfaces. the thermal goo is a poor substitute--but better than air.

ok, who'd going to do the first water-cooled motor mod?


sorry, cant help you with your radio. yes, on a typical computer radio you'd fly in a normal mode (linear throttle & pitch curves) and idle up (fixed throttle, linear pitch curve). maybe someone else can chime in with knowledge of your specific radio. with a computer radio, you can even tweak those settings. i don't know...maybe there's a switch on your radio that has a fixed setup for normal & idle up???

if it ain't broke…break it.
03-22-2006 Over year old.
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
kangarooster
Senior Heliman
Location: Orlando Fl-USA

[quOne other question- I can set the speed controller for constant RPM and then just use the pitch to vary the lift. Is this a better solution than having the speed tied directly to stick position?
ote]

Some top flyers swear by this method.
I have tried it and it seems to work. The motor runs cooler.
My ESC doesn't have soft start so I had to do some creative programming to get a smooth spoolup.
I don't think it is the best for everyone or every manouver.
03-23-2006 Over year old.
 
 
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Mikado Modellhubschrauber . GrandRC . CanoMod

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e-Century Hummingbird - Swift > Century 3D Pro, hovering and motor temps
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