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Boca Bearings . Modefo's RC Helicopters . XHELI.COM

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e-E-Flite Blade CP mCX CX 400-3D > just go my plastic CP blades today!!!!
 
 
Renfield
Senior Heliman
Location: Anderson, SC - USA

JCS, I've got one word for you: Symmetrical.

Please, oh please, oh please?

Cheers,
George

If a duck flies inverted, does it quack up?
03-30-2006 Over year old.
 
 
ECOHELI
Veteran
Location: new york

i noticed when i first got me plastic blades installed that i had the sticky collective. i fixed that problem by relocating the washers correctly. my problem is now that i want to use my woodies again that it seems i have the sticky collective again?? i didnt have it before when i had my plastic blades on but now when i switched back to the wood blades i now have the problem of the bird jumping up and down? not sure what to do?
04-02-2006 Over year old.
 
 
EKIM
Veteran
Location: Long Island New York

ECOHELI that sticky collective problem could have damaged your servos i'd check them out. they are probably the cause of heli jumping like that. watch the servos closely for any movement out of the ordinary when you spool up.
04-02-2006 Over year old.
 
 
40Trainer
Heliman
Location: Timonium, MD-USA

excellent blades.....i crashed into the house today and NO DAMAGE to the blades. great product
08-07-2006 Over year old.
 
 
tonyxcom
Heliman
Location: Vallejo, CA

I stopped using mine. After shearing 2 booms completely in half after dumps from a 2-3 feet hover I am back to the woodies. Along with the 2 booms I lost both blade grips and the 2 main shafts. The plasti-blades are in one piece but badly dinged from karate chopping the boom.

It's cheaper and faster for me to replace woodies at this point.

I should also note that I am a complete noob. The Blade Pro is my first heli of any kind and I've only had it a week now. But I can manage a tail in hover for several minutes at 3-4 feet.

I am sure this is a good product, but I simply cannot endorse it for real beginners as they will be dumping when in trouble.

www.tleone.com
08-07-2006 Over year old.
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
bcpmachine
Heliman
Location: Alta Loma, Ca.91737

New plastic blades are too heavy,too flexable and too strong.

I purchased the new plastic blades with the same good intentions we all have, save money, have more fun, and build on our hovering skills. Unfortunatly I had to learn the "Something got to Give" theory of transferred energy. Now, I completly understand why the fine engineers that developed the bcp decided to go with wood blades in the first place. Their light and they can take a moderate hit without transferring too much energy to the helicopter itself! and they made them very easy to replace(2 min.time tops ). If you are worried about the price of wood blades go to Heli-direct their around $ 8 bucks a set.
BUT if you would like get the new and even MORE STRONGER SUPER DUPER SET OF PLASTIC BLADES THEN REMEMBER THIS WARNING !!! they will be heavier(decrease your flight time) will still eventually break! and then consider where is all of that kinectic energy will be going to when you crash. Your tailboom? The blades severed mine,(a long time to fix), control pitch rods?(easy fix)but I am constantly,constantly, relpacing them, main shaft?(long time fix), grips?(long time fix), etc. Something has to give folks, it might as well be the wood! which some pretty smart engineer new was an excellent source of absorbing damaging shocks to your heli. Happy Hovering!
08-11-2006 Over year old.
 
 
Remyrw
Senior Heliman
Location: slidell, la - usa

Transfer

A got mine recently and haven't gotten to fly with them beyond a quick test hop but so far so good. They tracked very well, balanced already... One half turn of adjustment to track and i was done.

For the kinetic energy transfer, remember you shouldn't crank your blades in tightly, they SHOULD be able to pivot in the grips. Not freely but it shouldn't take a lot of effort either. The energy is used up by moving the blade against that resistance. Yes, there's gonna be a hard hit, but they should move rather than destroy something. I can see them breaking a tail boom if you were pulling back on the stick when things hit, but I'd bet the wood ones can do that too.

The main advantages I see for these blades are those of us who are in between. We need blades that can handle minor crashes without getting ripped up all the time but we're not wrecking the heli in general. The added stability gives us a little bit of help and we aren't having issues with flying slightly banged up balsa blades that just make it harder to fly rather than easier. They definitely will reduce responsiveness and overall performance (beyond being flat bottomed) along with flight times. All else being equal they will also result in more energy transferred inward on a strike, but I figure this balances out with the added stability to be a neutral point. Flight time is always an issue but I can't remember the last time I flew for a whole battery without some sort of issue anyway. When I can fly for a whole battery without something other than power making me stop I'll worry about endurance. For now I'm just getting hovering down with this thing. My CX is orders of magnitude more stable.

Last thing, those $8 flat bottomed blades from heli-direct are not very high quality. I've heard and seen very mixed results from them. it seems that some are ok and some are really lousy. Personally, I don't want to have to worry if balance and tracking and shape are making it harder to fly, I've got enough trouble. I shudder to think what a CP Pro must be like for someone new to this, just going from the CX to the CP is rough.

Remy
08-11-2006 Over year old.
 
 
tonyxcom
Heliman
Location: Vallejo, CA

I have a CP Pro. My first heli. "Flew" a CX a couple of weekends ago with only 3 props (owner crashed it showing it to me) and it was still able to hover. Did some research the rest of the weekend and ending getting the CP Pro (I like a challenge).

Anyway, at this point, I can manage a tail-in hover for a few minutes at a time.

The problem I had with the plastic blades is that I would get boom strikes from only 2-3 foot drops (with the training gear on). For example, I am trying to hover, it starts to get away from me, so I dump the collective to put it on the ground.

Not a problem with the woodies. But on my very first drop with the plasticblades, I was out of commision. Bought parts, fixed it, tried again and boom, out of commision again.

I back on a set of flat bottom woodies and have since finished 8 packs without any damage to blades or copter. And I have dumped from the same heights.

www.tleone.com
08-11-2006 Over year old.
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
Remyrw
Senior Heliman
Location: slidell, la - usa

Ouch

That's some seriously bad luck. Are you pulling back on the cyclic at the same time maybe? Or maybe you've got some negative pitch at bottomed out throttle/trim and it's pushing the blades down along with the momentum when it hits. Maybe a degree of positive pitch at "neutral" would solve this since even cranked all the way down the spin would keep them pulling upward just a tiny bit, enough to keep them from "sagging" and catching your boom.
08-11-2006 Over year old.
 
 
tonyxcom
Heliman
Location: Vallejo, CA

I think its just because of the weight. I have zero pitch with the stick all the way down and the trim in the middle.

It has to be the plastic blades because I dont have any of those issues with woodies, all else being the same.

I simply dont have any interest in using the plastic blades anymore.

www.tleone.com
08-11-2006 Over year old.
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
bcpmachine
Heliman
Location: Alta Loma, Ca.91737

I knew things felt a little heavy!!!

Since wieght is a huge concern for some micro heli hobbyists and maybe should always be a big a concern for any micro heli's performance, I decided to weigh these new plastic blades on a Jennings js 120 electronic scale. "GOOD NEWS is ," They are both dead even in weight, which makes tracking a no brainer. That measurement is much more consistant than that of wood blades. You know mother nature is going to have a tough time competing with that. Now the "BAD NEWS," they weigh in at 17.5 grams each! close to twice the weight of two wood blades. During my study, the wood blades wieght was definatley more inconsistant yet, packaged in pairs they were only a few milligrams off from the other. So, out of a set of twenty pairs of blades taken from the factory e-flite brand the heaviest wood blade weighed in at 10.6 grams, The lightest weighed in at 8.9 and now for the average! drumroll please.......the overall average weight comes in at 9.6. grams per blade! with a range of 1.7 grams sold in sets. My results have confirmed for me without a doubt that these blades are too heavy, too flexable, and are prone to striking your tail boom even on a moderate landing,

SMACK....wow these blades are sure strong, why is my heli cut in half?
somethings got to give, might as well be a ding in your wood blade.
Oh and lets remember, never tighten your blades too tight
08-11-2006 Over year old.
 
 
gadge
Heliman
Location: Wirral, England.

thanks guys.old thread but very helpful. decided to get a pair of plastcs to fal back on while waitng for new carbons or woodies. the weight of them posted there is amazing im surprised the motors arnt burning out.
cheers
01-01-2008 10:21 PM
 
 
tutelar-rc
Key Veteran
Location: Nobleton, Ontario - Canada

Just keep in mind that the wood blades will not break as easily as wood blades. So... something else is going to break. Most likely more head pieces. Also possible to smash your tail boom.

I ran carbon fiber blades for about 3 flights. Then they struck my boom and sliced through the boom. I learned two things from that experience:
1. how to replace a tail boom
2. don't use carbon fiber blades (even though mine are still in pristine condition)

I hope your experience differs.
01-02-2008 04:10 AM
 
 
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e-E-Flite Blade CP mCX CX 400-3D > just go my plastic CP blades today!!!!
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