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Fast Lad Performance . Ace Hobby . Esprit Model

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Scale Model RC Helicopters > Fiberglass question...
 
 
LongbowAV8R
Senior Heliman
Location: Aberdeen, MD

Hello all...

I have a FunKey 30 size JetRanger fuse that has been sitting idle for quite a while now and I have finally come upon a good project for it... my only problem is that I need to do a bit of repair work to the fuse (ok now... stop those wild imaginations! It was just an auto gone bad... could happen to anyone... )

Well, What I need is some good ideas on how to make the fiberglass nice and smooth again... I managed to strip the paint off well and do a bit of spot patching of the glass (of course it does need more...) I just want to know if there is a really decent way to get it looking good again without seriously far off the handle too much effort. I just hate to trash a fuse that is salvageable... but I know there must be a better way than what I have thought of....

Come on you long time scalers... help a brother out...

Thanks

Fly safe,

Never Leave Your Wingman!!!
The models will (and normally do) follow me everywhere....
10-11-2002 Over year old.
 
 
cquinby
Senior Heliman
Location: Tenino, WA

Can you post pics of the damage

Post some pics and some of us might be able to sugest a fix.

Chris

Chris
10-11-2002 Over year old.
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
LongbowAV8R
Senior Heliman
Location: Aberdeen, MD

Pics...

Sure...let me shoot a few and get em up.

I still have that horrible feeling that it's just simply going to take a layer of glass then wet sanding, then another layer of glass, then more wet sanding... until I work the warped look out of it... I was just wondering if there was a better way to rejuvinate and strengthen the fuse... doesn't need to be pretty, just strong and smooth... paint will be pretty.

Never Leave Your Wingman!!!
The models will (and normally do) follow me everywhere....
10-11-2002 Over year old.
 
 
BladeRunner
Elite Veteran
Location: Ontario Canada. Member of "some sort" s

I have tried using a used "dryer sheet" like "Bounce" for backing on the inside of my fuse, I wanted to fill an exhaust opening that was for different mechanics. It seems to be light and strong..but I haven't completed it yet and have no idea how it will work out.....just a thought.........
10-11-2002 Over year old.
 
 
Bill Ludwig
Veteran
Location: Tucson, AZ

Most people kill themselves when working with fiberglass, when it's actually pretty easy to work with. As mentioned, post some pics.

It's best to start in the inside of the fuse first. Rough it up good with some 100 grit paper, lay in a layer or two of 6 oz cloth, then roughen the outside and lay up a 1 oz patch. Smooth over the cured 1 oz patch with some lightweight fiberglass filler, sand with 220 wet just to the cloth, prime, sand (repeat if necessary) and you're ready for color.

Need more, let me know.

- Bill Ludwig
Arizona Heli
10-12-2002 Over year old.
 
 
LongbowAV8R
Senior Heliman
Location: Aberdeen, MD

here's the pics...

Thanks Bill... most of my glassing experience comes in the form of fixing surfboards and sailboards... not too much in the R/C line, but like I mentioned before, I think that I was planning to do things the hard way...

Thanks again for the schooling. All the help that I can get is GREATLY appreciated!






Once again... thanks for the help

Never Leave Your Wingman!!!
The models will (and normally do) follow me everywhere....
10-12-2002 Over year old.
 
 
Slider
Senior Heliman
Location: Orange City, FL

Nothing some 3/4 oz matt, 2 oz cloth, and some bondo won't take care of. The cloth isn't necessary, but it looks better. Listen to Bill... preparation, like anything else, is the key. Rough up the surfaces and clean them with alcohol or acetone prior to reinforcing them with fiberglass. At least two layers of the 3/4 oz matt and one layer of 2 oz cloth will be more than enough to strengthen any joint/crack. Apply the fiberglass to the inside first, then use bondo on the outside to smooth over the crack.


-Mark
10-12-2002 Over year old.
 
 
LongbowAV8R
Senior Heliman
Location: Aberdeen, MD

So...

I take it that this really isn't too far gone then... and definitely should be fixed up.

(My alternative is to get another fuse and give this one to Emile "CopterDoctor"... he has his way of working magic with these things...lol)

Well, I'm off to gather the rest of the supplies I need... nothing like starting a project and hitting a brick wall because you don't have the tools or supplies to continue.

Here is what she'll look like whence finished... eye candy ladies and gentlemen... lol



Never Leave Your Wingman!!!
The models will (and normally do) follow me everywhere....
10-12-2002 Over year old.
 
 
Siado
Senior Heliman
Location: Port Orchard, WA

Something I've found really useful in the past working with fiberglass: When you are trying to fix a larger hole/puncture/tear in a piece, use a flexible plastic report cover of decent thickness. Just cut a piece to the size you need to cover the damage on the outside of the fuse, then tape it to the outside. Position the fuse so that the damaged area is facing down so you can lay a piece of cloth on the inside covering the damaged area. Then just pour a little resin in and wait for it to cure. Peel the plastic and tape off the outside and you'll find the resin didn't even stick to the plasic. Gives a nice smooth finish that's easy to primer and fill over. Just my .02
10-12-2002 Over year old.
 
 
LongbowAV8R
Senior Heliman
Location: Aberdeen, MD

That is good....

Thanks Saido... that is the little tips that I am looking for.... boy, after all of this I am going to have to post several pics documenting the revitalization of that fuse so you all can see your expertise in the works... LOL

Thanks... keep the tips coming.

Never Leave Your Wingman!!!
The models will (and normally do) follow me everywhere....
10-12-2002 Over year old.
 
 
Twobeers
Key Veteran
Location: Toronto, Canada

As the others have said, the first thing is clean out at the broken bits and roughen up the surrounding areas for proper adhesin of your patches. If its a crack or hole I think it would be a waste of time to try to patch it up with filler or any other such material because it will just crack and fracture in relatively quick order in the near future. My little brother makes stretch limo's and uses a lot of fiberglass. What he does when he makes some of the custom parts that have sharp bends and such and has large surfaces to fill, or repair that actually too small for the laying method. He takes some fiberglass cloth and cuts/chops it up into a almost powder like condition. Make some backing for the area you want to repair with wax paper, you can stick a piece of rag or foam to hold the paper firmly in place if necesary. Mix the chopped up fiberglass with resin and fill in the cracks/holes with something disposable such as a plastic spatula or popsicle sticks. Let cure, then sand smooth. Apply a light coat of primer so you can find the small pin holes ect. Fill with automotive type spot putty. Sand some more and then when you are satisfied apply your final finish.

I lost my infamous tag line.
10-12-2002 Over year old.
 
 
Slider
Senior Heliman
Location: Orange City, FL

Filler

The best filler that I have come across is called Cabosil. It is a very fine powdery substance that mixes with resin. Talc, silica, and micro-balloons work well, but Cabosil is the best.

-Mark
10-12-2002 Over year old.
 
 
Bill Ludwig
Veteran
Location: Tucson, AZ

Filler -- the sequel...

Cabosil works fine if you don't have to sand. It's as hard as the resin, because that's just what it is. If you want a fiberglass resin-based filler that is lighter than Cabosil, and is very easy to sand and finish, use Evercoat Rage. You mix a cream hardener with it and it sets in about 5 minutes. It's ready to sand in a half hour. As always, rough up the area first, then apply the filler.

Hope that helps.

- Bill Ludwig
10-12-2002 Over year old.
 
 
Slider
Senior Heliman
Location: Orange City, FL

Yes, it is extremely hard to get a nice feathered edge with Cabosil. It works very well for filling holes, but the bondo (Polyester Filler Pastes) works best for finishing. Evercoat is some nice stuff but I like to use Adtech when I can get my hands on it.

-Mark
10-12-2002 Over year old.
 
 
J.W.
Heliman
Location: Livngston Calif.

fiberglass sanding

I recently purchased a BK117 via e-bay. reportedly it was in great shape and upon arrival, I discovered 11 substantial cracks that indicated some severe movement of the earth in that it must have jumped up to strike the BK117 while in fight.
obviouos rather extensive fiberglass repairs inside and out were needed and the thought of sanding them to blend them into the fuselage was a nightmare. I purchased a "Robyl" (sp???) sander called a "corner sander". I can obtain any finishe I want by simply applying more or less pressure on this sander. I can actually blend a patch (external) that will blend completely into the fuselage and not be seen. the point of the sander on the front of the machine allows me to get in and under tight antenna's strutts, external accessories without touching them and thus allowing me to complete my repair to complete satisfaction.
sanding sheets are form cut for the pad of the machine and come in many different grits. I am using an 80 grit to start, 100 grit then down to a 180 and 220 grit to finish the sites. I has been a great helper for me. all accomplished in a matter of minutes.
You might want to look into this machine for your project. agressive sanding by applying pressure and fine sanding by applying less pressure.

Just a suggestion, hope you have success with your project.
10-15-2002 Over year old.
 
 
B-C
Heliman
Location: Atwater, CA

fixing fiberglass

If the cracks do not go all of the way through you may not need to use fiber matt to strengthen the cracks. Just use epoxy resin an some microballoons to thicken the resin and use it like bondo. If the crack is deep use some unthickened resin to wet the surface then use the thickened resin to fill the crack. When dry the microballons will make it easier to sand and feather out. Then prep the fuse as you would normaly do I.E. fill pin holes smooth fill pin holes prime and sand and paint.
11-06-2002 Over year old.
 
 
Christopher J
Key Veteran
Location: Kansas City, MO Californian lost in land of Oz

I've found that Saido's method works very well. Some time back I had to replace a hatch on one of my bodies. I went to the hobby store and bought some very thin sheets of plastic styrene. I cut a piece the shape I needed and put in on the body and used some very small screws to hold in in place. It conformed to the shape of the body very easily. I then used thick glass matt and resin and let it sit overnight. The day I had a perfect shaped panel replacement.

Christopher J
East Coast Vario Field Rep
"Still all set & Flying the original"
11-07-2002 Over year old.
 
 
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Scale Model RC Helicopters > Fiberglass question...
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