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Bergen R/C Helicopters > Bergen Turbine Build

Tanager
Senior Heliman
Location: El Monte, California

Quote
Hey Chris On the turbine Intrepid Warren Allred was flying early last year at some airshows, he had an exhaust/air drive setup that eliminated the gearbox all together.

Red,

This is a development effort not associated with Bergen for a new generation Heli Turbine slated for late Fall release. It just happened to be in testing and mounted in my old dearly departed Intrepid.

I am unsure if anyone else if developing a free-air drive unit.

Sorry Chris for the thread mis-direct. The build is looking great!

01-06-2006 10:15 PM

Chris Bergen
Key Veteran
Location: location

Thanks Warren, and congrats on the pickup by Hirobo!! Do you know John Eller??

Chris Bergen

01-06-2006 11:37 PM

Chris Bergen
Key Veteran
Location: location

Ready for more?

With the turbine test run complete, time to put it in the frames. The Turbine is attached to the frames via thick heatsinks, and 6 4X12mm SHCS. And for Doc, don't forget to put the 18mm front canopy standoffs in place before attaching the frames to the Turbine.

The gearbox is bolted to the frames with 4 ea 4X12mm SHCS and a beefy rear mount.

Chris Bergen

01-07-2006 02:59 AM

Chris Bergen
Key Veteran
Location: location

Sitting on the gear. At this point the Turbine is mounted loosely in the lower frames to facilitate setting the gear mesh later on.

Three trays are incorporated, both to secure equipment to and to strengthen the framework torsionally.

Front and rear trays installed, ready for equipment.

Chris Bergen

01-07-2006 03:21 AM

v22chap
Veteran
Location: Howe, Indiana

Chris ,,nice looking turbine test stand you have there...

Hey this is unfair ,,you get to build a lot of those babies....

Hope all is well in this New Year... still busy with the side jobs ,,trying to pay off some last yrs bills

Wonder where they came from

I have a new fueling set up that will blow you away ,,if I can just find the time to assemble it

Say hi to the OLD one for me , Mary Ann and Mal too.
Larry

Larry C ----------Bergen R/C helicopters

01-07-2006 10:37 PM

HOMEPAGE

Chris Bergen
Key Veteran
Location: location

Will do Larry. I want to see for myself what you can do with that thing.

Upper frames are next. Seat the flanged bearings firmly into the inside of the frames, then secure with a drop of CA, being careful not to get it in the bearings. The clutch system is the same as the Standard Intrepid Gasser, except with a 10 tooth pinion installed.

Also gather up the elevator yoke, bearing blocks, tail transmission, and collective axles. Since Dakine's Turbine will be used as a camera ship, We're installing the Main Shaft Thrust Bearing Block on top. Bolt it all together leaving the Triple bearing block and main shaft bearing blocks loose for now.

Chris Bergen

01-08-2006 04:09 AM

Chris Bergen
Key Veteran
Location: location

Assembling the control arms. The controls on all Intrepids are closed loop, push-pull from the servo to the swashplate. As such they do require care in assembly and setup. It's not difficult, but the extra time spent here will make your bird a responsive, smooth flying machine instead of a jerky, battery draining beast. It also makes for a very precise system, even with some side to side slop in the bearings, the nature of this push pull system only operates in the rotational movement. Any slop can also be reduced by "preloading" the linkages, just give a ball link a half turn to tighten it up.

The controls installed. The collective arms (popsickle sticks) pivot on the upper collective axle, moving the elevator yoke and aileron bellcranks up and down. The aileron servo mount is installed in between popsicle sticks. This, and the elevator "X" arm mounted right at the pivot point on the right side, is what allows the pure collective movement without ANY interaction to the aileron or elevator controls.

Chris Bergen

01-08-2006 04:53 AM

Chris Bergen
Key Veteran
Location: location

The auto hub and main gear are bolted together, a few drops of light oil in the autohub will ensure proper operation and long life.

Install the assembly into the upper frames, sliding the main shaft through the auto hub, lower bearing, installing the split collars and thrust bearing, then through the upper bearing.

With the shaft in place, you can now secure the bearing blocks by tightening the bolts in the frames. This ensures the bearings are aligned properly with the shaft. You will want to push the tail drive transmission up so you can seat the main gear and shaft up all the way in the next step. If the transmission is in the down position, the autohub can't seat up all the way against the lower main shaft bearing because the tail pinion is pushing down on the main gear.

Pull the main shaft up and secure the lower split collar. Push the upper collar and thrust bearing up and secure the upper collar.

Chris Bergen

01-08-2006 07:02 AM

TOP CAT
Heliman
Location: London ,Ontario Canada

Bergen Turbin for Dakine

Chris
In the last pic ,I see a box with a un built turbin.Is that for any one I know?
Tom

01-08-2006 09:11 AM

Dakine
Elite Veteran
Location: OC, Commifornia

Quote
In the last pic ,I see a box with a un built turbin.Is that for any one I know?

That would be for my second Intrepid Turbine

WOW Chris, this is beautiful work!!!!!!!!!!

Thank you!

01-08-2006 10:11 AM

Chris Bergen
Key Veteran
Location: location

TOP CAT,

The Pics are somewhat out of sequence, but yes, yours is here too!!

Chris Bergen

01-08-2006 03:30 PM

Chris Bergen
Key Veteran
Location: location

The swashplate is all metal, with a large diameter outer bearing, and a precision eyeball.

The washout unit is next and is also all metal. Not a plastic base with metal insert, ALL metal.

Now's a good time to size the porkchop link for fitting onto the swashplate balls.

Chris Bergen

01-08-2006 05:58 PM

Chris Bergen
Key Veteran
Location: location

All of our mainshafts are 10mm, hollow, and fully hardened.

These same mainshafts are used on the Industrial birds with a payload of more than 20 Lbs, more than up to the task for this machine.

Chris Bergen

01-08-2006 10:06 PM

Chris Bergen
Key Veteran
Location: location

The rotor head is also all aluminum, uses an 8mm SS head axle with dual o'rings on each side.

Install the seesaw next, don't forget the brass washers between the bearing and the seesaw tube.

Install the seesaw endcaps, ensuring the caps are flush with the end and the balls are parallel with each other.

Chris Bergen

01-09-2006 03:09 PM

Chris Bergen
Key Veteran
Location: location

Ok, where were we? The rotor head, right.

Install the blades grips. These are also aluminum, not an upgrade, every machine we sell has them.

The thrust bearings are on the head axle as a demonstration only, they actually are installed AFTER the blade grip

You will notice one race has a smaller ID than the other. Identify which one this is, and place it to the side.

Grease the ball cage of the thrust bearing before installation also.

Slide the blade grip onto the head axle, then the larger ID race of the thrust bearing, the ball cage, THEN the smaller ID race. Secure with a 5X16 SHCS and washer, using loctite of course.

Repeat on the other side....

That is an ALL metal head!

Chris Bergen

01-10-2006 03:29 AM

Chris Bergen
Key Veteran
Location: location

Blade grip pitch arms and Bell/Hiller mixer arms. This is where you can really tailor the helicopter's feel to your taste.

You'll notice (hopefully!) that the arms are not symmetrical one side is longer than the other by 1 mm. There are also 2 holes per side.

With the mixers in this position, you have extreme cyclic authority and less flybar authority. This is for doin' the Wild Thing!!

In this position you have A LOT of flybar authority, which when coupled with V Blade paddles and flybar weights, will make for an extremely stable bird for AP work.

Chris Bergen

01-10-2006 03:51 AM

Chris Bergen
Key Veteran
Location: location

Installing the flybar requires measuring. Sneak it back and forth until the measurements on both sides are EXACTLY the same. I put the flybar arms on with the special washer, and just lightly install the setscrew to allow adjustment to the flybar until I like the measurement. Tighten the setscrews, with loctite, and you're done.

Installing the V-Paddles, in this case, 95 mm ones. Again measure to ensure they are EXACTLY the same distance from the flybar arms. Also make sure they are level with each other AND the flybar arms.

Chris Bergen

01-10-2006 04:35 AM

Dakine
Elite Veteran
Location: OC, Commifornia

Keep it up Chris. Soon, this will have more views than the "Hot Girls Thread."

Ahh...nice to see all the metal parts

Thanks

01-10-2006 05:28 AM

Chris Bergen
Key Veteran
Location: location

The completed assy's mounted on the mainshaft. Make sure everything slides up and down freely. A little light lubricating oil on the mainshaft makes it all smoooth.

A couple of cleanup items,

Installation of the Delrin Bushings. A little loctite, Make sure they are tight, but don't stretch the bolt!! If this bolt comes loose, it locks up the whole clutch system. If it shears, well, we won't think about that.....

A suggestion from Greg Alderman and others is to place the insulation that comes with the engine over it to keep heat away from the collective servo. Gary and I have been running ours without it so far, but it can't hurt.

Chris Bergen

01-10-2006 03:24 PM

Gary Travis
Veteran
Location: Utah

Chris

Actually I have been running it since Ircha, Greg talked me into it so what the hek.
Gary

Bergen R/C Helicopters Duralite Batteries V-blades Magnum Fuels Wren Turbinesl

01-10-2006 03:28 PM

HOMEPAGE

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