RunRyder - Blade CP on a Hitec Optic 6

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e-E-Flite Blade CP CX 400-3D > Blade CP+ on a Hitec Optic 6

Riverman
Senior Heliman
Location: Peace River, Alberta

Excellent information. Keep it coming.

Thanks everyone

12-23-2005 Over year old.

Slipknot77327
Senior Heliman
Location: New Waverly,Texas

I think this should be stickied,Cause alot of people want to know how to use the Optic 6 with the Blade.

12-23-2005 Over year old.

bRIBEGuy
Heliman
Location: Calgary, Alberta, Canada

BikeNBoatN, a few questions for you in regards to your settings:

With your SWAH setting: Swash +90 Ch1, +90 Ch2, +42 Ch6

Why do you have Ch6 at a lower rate? Did you have issues with your swash tilting with pitch variations?

Your pitch curves look very similar to what I currently have set up as well, though I am still having issues in IdleU3 with the servos traveling to far and buzzing with +/-10 degree blade movement (the buzzing sound is typical of "strained" servos, and is quite audible on my BLADE CP when I disconnect the main/tail motors).

Have you experienced any similar servo strain issues in IdleUp2 or IdleUp3?

With the stock TX, the servo's travel less with pitch and more with cyclic. I can't seem to reproduce this properly with my Optic (wihich sadly is charging and as such will limit my progress untill at least tommorow).

12-24-2005 Over year old.

BikeNBoatN
Veteran
Location: Santa Ana, CA USA

I had to use lower numbers in Ch6 because the servos were trying to move the swash farther than the rotor head could slide up/down on the spindle hub.

Actually, I don't use Idle-up2 or 3 so I don't worry about them too much. But I did make sure that even at maximum travel, the servos don't bind. That's why my pitch curves stop at 78.

As far as I can tell, my cyclic travel is the same between both Tx's. I know that in flight, I have never encountered any conditions where I wished I had more cyclic travel. It's been a while since I've programmed it, but I remember making sure all of my servos had full maximum travel w/o driving them beyond their limits.

Brent.

12-24-2005 Over year old.

Awais
Senior Heliman
Location: Mississauga, Ontario - Canada

Programmable mix

I was wondering if its possible to use one of the pmx with a timer. Timer being one channel and rudder being the other. I constantly have to trim the tail to keep it steady. So I thought if I can get this to work, I might not have to trim it throughout the flight, if at all.

Thanks,
Awais

12-27-2005 Over year old.

BikeNBoatN
Veteran
Location: Santa Ana, CA USA

Great idea, except I don't think it would work. You have to specify a channel (1 thru 6) to be the Master; in this case you'd want it to be "timer", except "timer" isn't a channel. I find 100 counts of rudder trim (50 each way) to be enough to keep the rudder in trim as the battery discharges. Nice idea, though.

Brent.

12-27-2005 Over year old.

bRIBEGuy
Heliman
Location: Calgary, Alberta, Canada

Well, with the holidays over, I finally had some time to go back to the Blade CP/Optic 6 programming project.

I currently have my BLADE CP set up bone stock, so my TX settings will inevitably change once I go to a 11.1v LiPo and Direct Drive tail rotor in the near future.

However, for now, this is how I'm set up:

EPA : 100% all
SWAH: ch1 +90, ch2 =90, ch6 +30 (this may soon be lowered as it is still giving me a -12/+12 pitch range)
RVMX: 0% (likely to change)
PTCV: 40%, inh, 60%, 75%, 90% (nor)/ 15%, 30%, 50%, 75%, 100% (ST-1)/ 0%, 25%, 50%, 75%, 100% (ST-2)
THCV: 0%, 25%, 50%, 75%, 100% (nor)/ 0%, 20%, 60%, 80%, 100% (ST-1)/ 100%, 80%, 70%, 80%, 100% (ST-2)
Channels 2 & 6 reversed
EXP 0%
D/R: 100%

I have yet to take it outside and fly with this set-up, but will hopefully try it out over the next few days.

On a slightly related side note, has anyone noticed their SPECTRA modules getting hot after a few minutes of TX usage?

12-28-2005 Over year old.

BikeNBoatN
Veteran
Location: Santa Ana, CA USA

Bribeguy, the Spectra module does get a little warm after a while. According to the manual, that's normal.

I notice you still have a linear rising throttle curve in Idleup1. If you want to take advantage of the higher headspeeds in ID1, you should consider changing your throttle curve to be more like your ID2. Although, if you plan to fly mostly in ID2, then I suppose it's your preference.

Ron Osinski, who flies these BCP's quite well, recommends using all 100's for Idle-up throttle curves. As long as you have the correct pinion to give the correct headspeed, everything (motor, battery, esc) runs more efficient and cooler at 100%. Sounds counter-intuitive, but it has to do with the way esc's throttle back. That's why I fly in ID1 exclusively, and the 4-in-1 red LED is on constantly in flight. My flying skills haven't progressed enough for inverted flying, which is why I don't use ID2.

Using some exponential on cyclic makes for smoother flying.

Brent.

12-28-2005 Over year old.

Helis Gone Wild
Heliman
Location: Costa Mesa, California

Detailed Optic 6 Program Setup...

The information enclosed below was one of my original program iterations. (Before going to seperates). It should work well for those who have a stock Blade.

Sorry about the formatting. The original document was created in MS Word.

Optic 6 Transmitter setup for the Blade CP Helicopter
(11.1 Volt, 1320 mHa LiPo Battery) 8 Tooth Pinion, Motor

Initial Transmitter Setup

MODE: 2
PPM
SFT.N
SWASH: 120"
HELI

Blade Specific Setup

Channel / Function
1/Right Servo 2/Elevator 3/Throttle 4/Rudder 5/Gyro 6/Left Servo

EPA 1/ 100% L&R 2/ 100% L&R 3/ 100% L&R 4/ 95% L&R 6/ 100% L&R
SWAH 1/ -100 2/ +100 6/ +20 (+20 Adjust amount of collective throw.)
RVMX ----
MX.55 ----
PTCV 0% 65% 76% 79% 83%
THCV 0% 78% 90% 100% 100%
HOLD Inh
Gyro ---
R > T 0%
PMX2 Inh
PMX1 Inh
T.CUT ---
REV 1/ N 2/ R 3/ N 4/ N 5/ R 6/ R
S.TRM * 1/ -30% 2/ 0% 3/ -30% 4/ -50% 5/ 0% 6/ 0%
EXP 1/ -12% 2/ -12% 4/ -8%
D/R 1/ 100% 2/ 100% 4/ 100%

* Helicopter specific

SW #4 = NOR
SW #3 = Up
SW #2 = Up
SW #1 = Up

12-28-2005 Over year old.

Riverman
Senior Heliman
Location: Peace River, Alberta

Hello

Has anyone else here had trouble opening their Optic 6 to get rid of the rachet? I've removed the six screws, the antenna, the battery pack and the module but its still holds firm. I'm sure I could jam a flat blade screw driver in their and pry it open but I doubt it's necessary. Any suggestions?

regards

12-29-2005 Over year old.

Awais
Senior Heliman
Location: Mississauga, Ontario - Canada

You have to remove the two black plastic pieces holding the the top and the bottom of the transmitter. Just slide a small screwdriver in from the top and lift it. Once both of them are off the transmitter will open, no need to use any force. Took me a while to figure it out too.

Awais

12-29-2005 Over year old.

Riverman
Senior Heliman
Location: Peace River, Alberta

Thanks Awais, I'll give that a try.

Now I've got another more perplexing problem in trying to setup Optic 6 in my Blade CP. I have a firm understanding of pitch/throttle curves and how to program them. Trouble is, the servos don't exactly seem to be following the curve. This is my first "real" heli radio

I'm just trying to program normal mode right now. I followed the Hitec manual's suggested pitch curve for normal mode. As I advance the collective the pitch goes from approximately 0 degrees to -3 degrees, and then quickly increases above +5degrees. My point is that I do not seem to have the linear curve I have programmed and it really makes for dangerous flight characterstics in normal mode. Why is the collective decreasing for approximately the first half of the stick's travel?
I swear this is not what I have programmed the curve to do.
Anyone?
Thanks, Brett

12-30-2005 Over year old.

BikeNBoatN
Veteran
Location: Santa Ana, CA USA

Are you in Normal mode? If so, check the position of the swinging levers at the top sides of the tx. Normally, they should be swung down. If they're up, they give a weird exponential travel in Normal mode. If you're in Idle-up, they don't do anything.

Brent.

12-30-2005 Over year old.

Riverman
Senior Heliman
Location: Peace River, Alberta

Hello all

I'm starting to get this thing under control... Made the mistake of switching my Blade CP to brushless and an Optic 6 at the same time and I suffering for it.
Could somebody in there own words please explain the following functions of the Hitec Optic 6 for me:
-Subtrim as opposed to regular trim
-SWAH settings
-Revolution Mixing high vs low and idle up vs normal

Although I understand the concept, I am also a little confused about the switching and programming of the dual rate modes.
I was also wondering about the possibility of conducting auto rotations with the Blade CP given the programmibilty of the Optic 6.
Can you not use revolution mixing to maintain a certain degree of yaw control in an auto?I have a small brushless motor with relatively low cogging and low drag so maybe I could get away with not having an auto-rotation gear. Just a thought, though I'm sure it'll get shot down.

Thanks for the help, Brett

01-06-2006 Over year old.

bRIBEGuy
Heliman
Location: Calgary, Alberta, Canada

I'd think autorotations with a Blade would still be a no-no even with a brushless motor. I think the overall drag would still be too great. Then again, I may be wrong! It's your heli...........give it a whirl if you think the head movement is drag-free enough.

Sub-Trim is a way to get your servos perfectly centered without having to mess with your trims. That way you can start with your heli set-up right and have the trims all zero'd. Personally, it's a feature I have yet to really explore or use.

SWAH settings set the amount of servo throw you will get from Ailron (ch1), Elevator (ch2), and Pitch (ch6).

In SWAH I found that ch1:+90, ch2:+90, ch6:+30 gave me a servo throw very close to the stock Tx (acording to my "eyeballed with a ruler" method).

Revo Mix I have yet to play with.................

Hope this helps you out somewhat.

01-09-2006 Over year old.

soulcrusher90
Heliman
Location: Des Plaines, IL (chicago suburbia)

OK, today I started programming my Optic for the BCP. I used a combination of some of the settings listed in this thread and then adjusted to fit my needs. It works, but I have some problems that I can't figure out how to fix:

1. When throttle is adjusted quickly, the tail is slow to react and the heli rotates a good amount, then recenters. It gave me a couple scares when I got near the low ceiling in my basement. I lowered it very quickly, and it spun. I added throttle quickly as it was falling pretty fast. It rotated 90+ degrees and then centered back, but I was so freaked I just chopped the throttle at about 10" up.

2. This is more of a BCP problem, really. I accidentally turned my Optic on with the Spectra set to Ch. 59, while the BCP is Ch. 54. As soon as it turned on, the servos did a little dance and then held. They occasionally chattered if I moved the sticks. This is kinda freaky, as I also received a high load of interference at a Golf Dome. Does this mean that the reciever is too broad range and that I need to upgrade it?

01-12-2006 Over year old.

BikeNBoatN
Veteran
Location: Santa Ana, CA USA

Soulcrusher, does your heli have the same problem spinning with the OEM Tx? If so, you might try increasing the 4-in-1 gain a little. The other thing I did to my Optic6 was to add programmable mixing. Add right rudder as collective is increased. My BCP holds reasonably straight during climbouts, though it's still definitely no HH gyro.

Brent.

01-12-2006 Over year old.

Riverman
Senior Heliman
Location: Peace River, Alberta

BikeNBoatN

Isn't revo mixing the same thing as what you're doing with the programmable mixing?

01-12-2006 Over year old.

BikeNBoatN
Veteran
Location: Santa Ana, CA USA

Hmmm...it may be. I have my revo mix values equal at low stick as well as high stick. Maybe if the revo value at high stick was higher it would work the same as my programmable mix. Since the heli holds fairly steady when I pump collective with my programmable mix on, but spins quite easily with my programmable mix off, it accomplishes what I want it to do. So right now, it works ok for me as is. If I get ambitious, I'll see how it behaves with mixing off, but with revo higher at high stick.

Good question, Brett.

Brent.

01-12-2006 Over year old.

soulcrusher90
Heliman
Location: Des Plaines, IL (chicago suburbia)

BikeNboatN,
No, it only happens with my Optic. REVO mix is set to 0/0, as it usually gives me odd results (although I haven't tried it since I replaced my tail motor). I will try a mix today and see if that helps. I wanted to test the extent of the problem yesterday, so I took it up about 8 feet, cut the throttle to about 5% stick, then quickly powered back up so that it didn't hit the ground. The result? A 3/4 piro. I set it down gently and shut down (it was 12:30 at night).

Sponge

01-14-2006 Over year old.

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e-E-Flite Blade CP CX 400-3D > Blade CP+ on a Hitec Optic 6

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