darkfa8
Key Veteran
Location: Eatontown, NJ, USA
| Jeff,
If you have a High Point or Du-Bro Tru-Spin balancer you can more accurately balance the assembly... or...
using the best ruler you have, center the fly-bar in the head. I believe the 3D flybar is 400mm long, so from the center of the fly-bar carrier or see-saw button head you should have 200mm from that point to the end of the fly-bar on either side. Get it as close as possible. You can loosen both set-screws in the carrier and adjust the bar till it's equal by snugging down one set-screw, then snug the other one once it's equal. Once done, pull out one set screw and add blue loc-tite, put that back in tight and repeat for the other side.
Depending on whether or not you want to balance the assembly, you can put on a 5/32" airplane wheel collar on each side of the fly-bar. Then what I do is screw on one paddle, make sure it's level/in-line with the carrier, until you can't see any more of the threads. Then I'll measure from the aluminum side of the fly-bar carrier where the set-screw goes through to the "root" edge of the paddle.
Then I'll screw on the other paddle and make sure the leading edge is opposite of the other paddle. You can check the manual to make sure you set the leading edges properly for each side. Screw on this paddle until it's out the same distance as the other. You might find a variance of 0.30-0.50mm on average and that's pretty much as close as you're gonna get due to the threads/inch of the fly-bar threaded ends.
After that, you can disconnect all linkages to the fly-bar, and let the bar float. If it's not level, move one of the wheel collars out until it levels. This balances the fly-bar chordwise. To do spanwise you'll need a High Point balancer or equivalent.
After that's all done, reattach all linkages, get the heli in the air and check your tracking, adjust as needed.
- Dan G. - |
Jeff
