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CanoMod . Futaba-RC . A Main Hobbies

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e-Ikarus Piccolo-Eco 8/16 > Viper 70
 
 
AnnihilaT
Key Veteran
Location: The Netherlands Force: The Dark Side

Hmmm.... good idea i will try that
09-20-2005 Over year old.
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AnnihilaT
Key Veteran
Location: The Netherlands Force: The Dark Side

Well i finally got to fly it today with around 2300RPM headspeed with the Orbit 10-14 and 18T pinion. Vibes are gone now and i hovered and did some FF on the 3500mah pack. I got about 13 minutes. Battery and motor were barely above ambient. Climbout is NOT impressive but im wondering how it will do in the field with some careful collective management. My phasing is still off tho and i need to have a look at that. Forward cyclic gives forward and to the right diagonal movement. Never adjusted phasing so this is gonna be just trial and error i guess. Anyone know exactly which way to adjust for this?
09-24-2005 Over year old.
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fonto
Heliman
Location: Fort Myers FL

For those of you having problems with the tail shaft try using a Pro Piccolo main shaft you can get two tail shafts out of it. It's much harder than what is comming with the kit.
Make sure you check the balance of the tail blades before you go to fly as they are most likely may out. I've already destroyed the heli on its first flight because of the tail blades.
09-26-2005 Over year old.
 
 
tean
Senior Heliman
Location: Gloucestershire,UK

An update.
First, here's a photo of the mod to front end of the tail control tube.

I can't see how a heading hold gyro that does not have adjustable end stops, can be used without a mod simillar to this. This mod greatly improved the tail control. Without it, I had to reduce the ATV to below 30% each way to prevent overdriving the slider.

The screwdriver tail shaft is working well. Here's the temporary nylon washer I made to cure the brass sleeve wearing away on the roller bearing cage problem. It seems to be working perfectly so I think it can become a permenant fix.


And here's a view of the right side. Note the CF frame stiffener rod beside the maingear. The screws are cyanoed into the rod. It has stopped much of the bending of the upper frames.


I have now tried the model with the flybar weights. They're really heavy for a model this size. They have reduced the cyclic control a little, but have not had much effect on the overall feel. At the moment, I don't think they're worth the weight, and I intend to remove them again.
I have now fitted aheading hold gyro, but the only flying it has done has been in conditions too windy for any serious evaluation. It does seem to have improved the heading through loops considerably.

I like to think of myself as a vaguely decent 3D pilot. With my two top models, the Logo10 and the ERaptor, I can do most of the usual non pirouetting 3d stuff with varying degrees of tidyness and can fly around inverted comfortably till the cows come home. I can hover inverted, nose and tail in, and on a good day, I can manage high speed, backwards, inverted circiuts.
However I can't get anywhere near close to this sort of stuff with the Viper. The best I can generally do is some loops and rolls and some dodgy flip type stuff. I have great fun blasting around at full speed, (it's really very, very fast) but don't really feel comfortable doing much else. There's nothing I can pinpoint to say why. The Viper seems pretty vice free really, but it's not easy to make it go EXACTLY where you want it. It's obviously a bit unfair to compare it to the likes of a Logo10, but I would like to feel more at home with it. I should say that this is my first micro heli. My previous smallest is a VoyagerE. At the other end of the flight spectrum, I feel much happier weaving the Voyager around the many trees and bushes in my garden than I do the Viper.
I think the Viper has great potential. It's got loads of go; in fast flight it's a peach; and it makes a great sound. If I can improve its acuracy, it's going to be a winner. The flimsy swashplate and maybe some posey blades might be a start point.

Anyone else got a view?

Logo14 Vbar, Logo500 CSM flybarless, Trex 600 CSM flybarless, 3DMP, Logo10, Lipoly, Mini T, .......
10-17-2005 Over year old.
 
 
AnnihilaT
Key Veteran
Location: The Netherlands Force: The Dark Side

About its bit of unpredictabilty - I upgraded to the metal swash and it made a world of difference. I totally agree with your comments on how it flies. I also cant really say why but ive been afraid to take it inverted so far although i am very comfortable doing so with my TREX. It could be mental as i havent seen anyone else doing it and im just worried what is going to happen - i dont know. Anyway im having fun with it and although im not flipping it around the sky like i do my TREX's its still great fun to fly at high speed and I also love the sounds it makes. I think the main thing is that it doesnt seem to have loads of reserve climbout power like my trexes do and that just makes me a bit nervous but im gonna try some stuff with it when the weather is nice again. The new swash has given me alot more confidence in it.
10-17-2005 Over year old.
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tean
Senior Heliman
Location: Gloucestershire,UK

Thanks for that AnnihilaT. I didn't know there was a metal swash out already. Sounds like it'll be a good investment. Where did you get yours from?

It sounds like my setup is a bit "hotter" than yours. I've only got a 2500mAh pack in mine so I'm down around 8 mins duration, but I've got loads of climout power. I'd bet I could leave a lot of 60 powered glow models well behind. I've read on some Stinger pages that they're recommending 4s!! NASA had better watch out.

I've had mine inverted quite a lot and nothing nasty has happened, but I just don't feel very relaxed when its upside down.

It's all good, clean fun really.

Andy

Logo14 Vbar, Logo500 CSM flybarless, Trex 600 CSM flybarless, 3DMP, Logo10, Lipoly, Mini T, .......
10-17-2005 Over year old.
 
 
AnnihilaT
Key Veteran
Location: The Netherlands Force: The Dark Side

Hi,

Try www.rc-city.de for the swash. Im running 3S 3500mah battery on mine which is quite heavy so this may be where my lazy climbouts are coming from. Whats your headspeed and pitch range -/+ ? Ive got +10/ -10 and about 2300 rpm so far. The thing with this bird is that there arent many people flying them yet so i really have no idea how high i can take the headspeed etc.

What stinger sites have you found?

Anni
10-17-2005 Over year old.
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ozace
Key Veteran
Location: melbourne, australia

I am still not conifdent with mine either. I have the swash on order but it looks as though MS are on a go slow.

I think as people go for more power, frame flex and TGB spread will become real issues. .

we can never have too many, can we ?
10-17-2005 Over year old.
 
 
AnnihilaT
Key Veteran
Location: The Netherlands Force: The Dark Side

TGB spread?
10-18-2005 Over year old.
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ozace
Key Veteran
Location: melbourne, australia

Tail Gear Box spread. The plastic frame spreads a liitle at the rear where there is no fixing. After you fly give a gentle squeeze and you can feel a little movement.

we can never have too many, can we ?
10-18-2005 Over year old.
 
 
tean
Senior Heliman
Location: Gloucestershire,UK

I think I can describe its flying by comparing it to a car. If you're just blasting about aimlessly in a flat, featureless desert, it's great fun. But when you drive it along a road, you realise that it doesn't quite go where you tell it. You find it difficult to not touch the kerb or wander over the white line. This makes you feel unconfident (what's the opposite of confident) and stops you pushing it hard.

.

Logo14 Vbar, Logo500 CSM flybarless, Trex 600 CSM flybarless, 3DMP, Logo10, Lipoly, Mini T, .......
10-18-2005 Over year old.
 
 
AnnihilaT
Key Veteran
Location: The Netherlands Force: The Dark Side

About the TGB spread. I had that issue as well in the beginning and i have fixed the issue by using CA to glue the two halves of the white plastic gear in the tail box together. For me it was this gear coming apart which was causing the gear box to spread.
10-18-2005 Over year old.
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ozace
Key Veteran
Location: melbourne, australia

good find Anni. I must look into that.

we can never have too many, can we ?
10-18-2005 Over year old.
 
 
AnnihilaT
Key Veteran
Location: The Netherlands Force: The Dark Side

Here are some pics of how my viper looks at the moment. Enjoy!





10-22-2005 Over year old.
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tean
Senior Heliman
Location: Gloucestershire,UK

That's a serious bit of bling on the top there!
You might like to try removing the flybar weights completely. They're very heavy for a model this size and they're not doing anything all the way in like that.

.

Logo14 Vbar, Logo500 CSM flybarless, Trex 600 CSM flybarless, 3DMP, Logo10, Lipoly, Mini T, .......
10-22-2005 Over year old.
 
 
AnnihilaT
Key Veteran
Location: The Netherlands Force: The Dark Side

Dont you think they are providing a bit of stability even tho they are all the way in? Or not? I mean it does add some weight to the disc so I would think that they have to be doing something? Also this is the way the heli came assembled from the factory. (yes i cheated and bought a pre-built one and then blinged it).

2 reasons i left them on...

1) I liked the fact that there was more than just plastic on metal holding the flybar in place

2) I convinced myself that they were actually doing something for stability and since im happy at the moment with the cyclic response being fast enough for me ive left them on until my first 3D flight with it so that i can see what the difference will be flying without them.
10-22-2005 Over year old.
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Flight-Deck-Guy
Heliman
Location: Richmond, Virginia

Brushless Motor Suggestions

Hello,
I need some advice on an economical brushless setup that does not cost over $400 dollars, like the one that Ikarus sells. There has to be some good motor's out there that won't beak the bank


Thanks
Craig N
12-13-2005 Over year old.
 
 
january flyer
Senior Heliman
Location: Lake Charles Louisiana usa

viper 70

My 1st Viper is all Ikarus set up but with a 22 tooth p. on the H8 this was hot. 2 sec. Viper all optional aluminum carbon fiber tuning parts hollow hardened main rotor shaft, titanium tail shaft and a aluminum tail boom holders and upper main shaft bearing holder.Fly bar was cut 20mm. on each end of the fly bar,no weights so the roll and flip rate is faster. HS-56s. Micro 6v UBEC,CMS 420 gyro Motor : I talk to James Wang and he told me to go with the Multiplex Permax 480/4D with Multicont 37A BEC controler made by C.C for Multiplex with a 10 tooth P. Motor Kv is 3170 I just order mine today from Tower Hobbies $149.99 for both of them. He told me that he is getting 10 min. just flying and 7 to 8 min. hard 3D and that it is not for the newbee its a real powerful setup. My carbon fiber blades is what I call high lift blades there 43.83mm. wide the kit wood and optional carbon blades is 36.73mm. all same length. All servo wires was cut down to 2.5 in. Gyro and ESC is and will be cut down to save weight .RX is a JR R610UL for now TX. JR XP- 9303 . carbon fiber tail tube on tail rotor and kit landing gear rounds it off. Titianium tail shaft is from a Pro Piccolo main shaft cut to size .Hollow hardened main shaft is from the no longer made Kalt Whisper EP I had 3 fo them and cut them down to size.
12-13-2005 Over year old.
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lionel2341
Heliman
Location: New Jersey

Below is a custom made Vipor70 flybar control which eliminates all play in this setup. The factory version is plastic and very flimsy. Control is much improved. Made using the flybar assy from a T-rex.

Ernie



Original Member of the Monmouth Model Airplane Club
01-22-2006 Over year old.
 
 
AnnihilaT
Key Veteran
Location: The Netherlands Force: The Dark Side

Very nice idea and great use of cheaper parts for the innovation! Kudos!





A day without sunshine is like, well, night.
01-22-2006 Over year old.
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e-Ikarus Piccolo-Eco 8/16 > Viper 70
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