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New & Emerging R/C Helicopters > My Stinger 50

scottc
Key Veteran
Location: shakopee minnesota..USA

I was there when the blades flew off the stinger 30 but that can happen to any arf unit tho, even with rc cars in the rtrs.

Hey I didn't ask for this fetish.!!!But I'am sure paying for it....

06-08-2005 Over year old.

bobc1
Senior Heliman
Location: Southern California

Consensus Is: Gohbee Stinger 50 Flies Well

After running about another gallon through the Gohbee, I like the way it flies. Very stable (for a 50) in hover & FFF but good (comparable to a Raptor 50) response on cyclic (with TT green paddles & 1940 headspeed).

With 401/9254/stock plastic TR blades, the tail will blow out (like a Raptor 50 will) in backward flight if the headspeed is bogged through poor collective/cyclic management. The Evo's don't suffer from this problem. I understand that this is because the Evo has a higher TR speed.

It was flown by several other persons, including Raptor & Evo owners, who all agree with the above description of flight characteristics.

The dragging clutch remains an issue but David offered to replace it. It could probably be corrected by removing a small amount of material off the liner with sand paper. David also sent a new auto hub pulley.

Good customer service & parts are very inexpensive. The quality seems comparable to a Raptor. Longevity is an unknown, at this point.

06-13-2005 Over year old.

bobc1
Senior Heliman
Location: Southern California

Be Careful Tightening Metal Blade Grip Bolts

I just sent this to David @ Gohbee.

Hi David:

I received the metal head parts for the Stinger 50. I was removing, loctiting, & re-tightening the bolts that attach the ball arm to the metal blade grips when I managed to twist the bolt furthest from the ball off in the blade grip. Not the highest quality bolt I have ever seen but probably as much my fault as anything.

So far, I have been unable to remove the broken portion, although I will try some heat to break down the loctite.

Would you sell just one metal blade grip without the arm & a replacement bolt?

Also, I removed the original rubber dampers from the center hub to use in the new metal head. They are actually in pretty bad shape. I have probably flown about 3 gallons through this heli, so far.

I need to order a couple of sets of those, P/N 10121. Do you have any stiffer rubber or plastic sets available? Are they interchangeable with any other brands that you are aware of?

One of your field rep's mentioned that the metal head blade grips were of a different design than the plastic ones. They look to have identical dimensions to me.

06-28-2005 Over year old.

bobc1
Senior Heliman
Location: Southern California

Additional Info on Metal Head

Hi David:
A follow up to my message from yesterday. I was unable to remove the broken bolt from the metal blade grip & ruined the grip attempting to drill the bolt out. So, I'm dead in the water unless I use the plastic grips with the new metal center hub.

One new problem: The new metal center hub is a larger diameter than the original & it seems the seesaw (flybar fulcrum) bearing bosses are slightly further apart on it. This creates binding on the bearings if the seesaw bolts are tightened. I believe that either the inner bearing bushings could be shimmed between the bushing and the bearing (4mm ID) or a shim placed between the seesaw & the bushing (3mm ID).

This is a very small shim required, possibly .1 - .2 mm (probably two .1mm shims). The bearings are completely seated in the new center hub & the original bushings are installed. It is impossible to tighten both seesaw bolts without creating binding on the bearings.

Has anyone else mentioned this condition?

Thanks,
Bob

06-29-2005 Over year old.

drvcrash
Heliman
Location: Whaleyville, MD

did you ever fix the clutch dragging? I got my together together and when I start it it drags so bad that after a few seconds of me hodling the head my engine starts running backwards cuase its loading up. This is Os hyper .50.

07-04-2005 Over year old.

bobc1
Senior Heliman
Location: Southern California

drvcrash:

No, the clutch still drags. A little better but I have the same problem. If you set the idle too slow, the OS50 will catch & run backwards. David did offer to send a new clutch & I may accept his offer.

Right now, the GB is grounded until David comes up with a solution to the incorrect dimensions of the seesaw bearings/metal head problem. After re-examining the problem, I believe that the only solution is to install different dimension collars/bushings.

I haven't heard back from him. Maybe after the holiday.

Bob

07-04-2005 Over year old.

drvcrash
Heliman
Location: Whaleyville, MD

I thought it was just mine dragging since I used a raptor .50 fan and not the gohbee one. I needed the senor holes for my rex max. I might go ahead and just order the raptor start shaft and clutch tomorrow and see if that fixes it. The clutch bells look that same so i shouldnt need that.

07-04-2005 Over year old.

drvcrash
Heliman
Location: Whaleyville, MD

I finally got it figured out. I replaced the gohbee clutch with the Raptor 50 fan , clutch and start shaft and now its fine. I actually hovered two tanks thru it just now , I set my high needle to 3 turns out for break , backplate didnt burn me when I touched it for 5 seconds when I landed. I guess a tank more then ill start leaning it out slowly

07-13-2005 Over year old.

bigbuster
Senior Heliman
Location: APO 09021 NY

Metal head parts

Bob, what ever happened with the metal head parts.. I am really interested in these parts but want to make sure they work properly.

Thanks
Jeff

I'm hooked.......

08-18-2005 Over year old.

HOMEPAGE

bobc1
Senior Heliman
Location: Southern California

Re: Metal head Stinger 50 parts.

Well, it turns out there are at least three different versions, all with slightly different center hub dimensions. David was good with his customer service & provided another version that works OK.

The functional dimensions are all exactly the same & flies just like the plastic head, possibly a little more sensitive.

I see no reason to go to the metal head except possibly safety @ high headspeeds. I am running 2000 rpm & really like the model except that the tail will blow out in backwards flight if you even slightly bog the headspeed.

I used the GB to learn backwards autos but you have to set TH way up to avoid the tail blowing out immediately. Works, though. I believe this is similar to a Raptor. Seems like it needs a faster TR.

The plastic used in the frames, ball links, & gear is very tough. I probably have about 10 gallons through the GB & nothing is in need of replacing due to wear.

For what the model was intended for, i.e., an inexpensive model with good flight characteristics, good customer service, & dirt cheap parts, the GB has done well.

My improvement would be a faster TR to avoid blowing out the tail.

Just my $.02.

08-18-2005 Over year old.

scottc
Key Veteran
Location: shakopee minnesota..USA

bobc1
what are using for a gyro tho.??

Hey I didn't ask for this fetish.!!!But I'am sure paying for it....

08-18-2005 Over year old.

bobc1
Senior Heliman
Location: Southern California

401/9254. I have an extra 601/9251 that I'm thinking of trying but some of the other folks I fly with have tried the 601 in the Raptors with the same results.

I have 601's in a Freya & an XSpec (just converted to an Evo Freya) & they are really nice compared to a 401 but I'm not sure it will solve the tail blowing out on the GB.

If I try it, I will post the results.

Maybe someone else has already been there.

08-18-2005 Over year old.

scottc
Key Veteran
Location: shakopee minnesota..USA

Mind you iam not a top dog flyer but i fly with some guys that are and they can out fly the gy 502s on there 50 machines so i would think you are flying better then the gyro can perform for your flying abilities, after these gents put on the 601s they had no more tail issues.

Hey I didn't ask for this fetish.!!!But I'am sure paying for it....

08-18-2005 Over year old.

bobc1
Senior Heliman
Location: Southern California

I might have to give the 601 a try. The current setup reminds me of flying the Dominion 60 on G3. If you fail to use very careful collective management the tail blows out. It's actually good practice but in TH with a normal idle, backwards flight is just about impossible.

08-18-2005 Over year old.

Airman98
Key Veteran
Location: Southern Illinois

Have you thought about running some 102s on the tail to give you some more control.
Tim

08-19-2005 Over year old.

kaptkaos
Key Veteran
Location: Miami FL

Did you set the ATV on the rudder channel to 100% and limit the throw at the gyro?

I have a GB 50 with a Hyper\401\9253 and it holds the tail ROCK solid, and it actually has more authority than the Raptors. I would check your setup.

If you give a Chimp a gun, and the Chimp shoots, DONT BLAME THE CHIMP!!!!

08-20-2005 Over year old.

HOMEPAGE

bobc1
Senior Heliman
Location: Southern California

Yeah, I understand the 401 setup. Have you tried backwards auto's with the TH set at a normal idle?

Rolling forward auto's are OK because the tail is following.

I would say that it's just me except one of the very good pilots, Scooterpilot aka Chuck, had the same experience. As soon as you hit TH in backwards flight, it turns into forward flight.

I really notice the tail breaking in funnels. If you bog just a little bit, the tail is gone.

08-20-2005 Over year old.

kaptkaos
Key Veteran
Location: Miami FL

Well since you are doing some advanced 3D, I am going to assume that you know how to build and setup I did not know that before, thanks for elaborating. I guess you are going to have to chase it and find the setup that works.

Mine holds in hurricanes, reverse flight, funnels, the works. We havent tried a reverse Auto from altitude, but we do spin the tail and fly it in backwards halfway down, in all wind conditions.

Mine seems great. Ihope you track it down.

Our GY401 setup is:

DS=On
Delay=0
Gain= Approx 78%
RUD CH ATV= Max
Limit set on Gyro
Headspeed=1970

I use TT 600 CF Blades and a Hyper with a stock pipe
Raptor Fan, Stinger Clutch
30% CP

So far the only real complaint I have about the Gohbee is the Fan, and the slop that develops in the washout arms causing tracking to go off.

If you give a Chimp a gun, and the Chimp shoots, DONT BLAME THE CHIMP!!!!

08-20-2005 Over year old.

HOMEPAGE

kaptkaos
Key Veteran
Location: Miami FL

I just thought of something else...

If you are raising the TH a little in TH curve, could the clutch be catching causing drag and lower headspeed, blowing out your tail? The GOhbee clutch is not the same as the Rappys.

Maybe try it with a very low Idle or a TH CUT to see if there is any difference?

Just a stab in the dark....

If you give a Chimp a gun, and the Chimp shoots, DONT BLAME THE CHIMP!!!!

08-20-2005 Over year old.

HOMEPAGE

bobc1
Senior Heliman
Location: Southern California

Are you using stock TR blades? I tried some CF NHP's with the same results.

One difference may be is that you are running a Hyper. I have a stock OS50 with Performance Specialties piston & liner with a small cheap pipe. You may have the additional power to prevent any loss of headspeed during power on maneuvers.

Your suggestions on a draggy clutch during auto's may be the answer. The GB clutch has been very draggy from the start & still is. I will pull the engine out & attempt to free up the clutch.

Good idea.

08-20-2005 Over year old.

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