rrTV-PHOTO   New HD TV
HOME   rrTV-PHOTO   GALLERIES   MY GALLERY   HELP-FAQ
myHOME PM pmRR MEMBERS 349 ONLINE 20 EVENTS SEARCH REGISTER  START HERE
 
1 page350 viewsPOST REPLY
GrandRC . CanoMod . Futaba-RC

.
.
Century Hawk - Falcon - Raven - Predator > HELP hawk IV or SE
 
 
concept1
Key Veteran
Location: Youngstown, OH

Well I have been researching the hawks now and am really stuck. I have been in and out of heli's for many years now and am ready to retire my old SRX which has every imaginable upgrade on it to make it a pretty good flyer. I am stuck inbetween the IV and the SE, I really like the upgrades on the SE, but the price on the IV is pretty dang good right now. If I get the IV i will order the bearings and the swash bracket with it which brings the price to about $280 and the SE is $330 so at $50 the SE sure looks good except no muffler. well now it's time for your opinion. I know their are many posts on the hawk, but none that really say much about the "acctual" reasons why one or the other the SE has many upgrades, but do the really mean anything, other than the bearings, metal frame is cool but is it needed
08-01-2002 Over year old.
 
 
oldfart
Elite Veteran
Location: Vancouver, Canada

Hawk IV or SE

Just a quick review of the other items:

1-The SE comes with 550mm Hurricane FRP blades ($80) while the IV comes with the CN2322 woodies ($20). Though the Aerotech woodies are some of the best woodies I have flown they still do not fly or auto anywhere near as well as the Hurricanes. (a net difference of $60)

2 - The SE canopy/windshield combination (HI3130B & H13133A) is a lot better looking then the Hawk IV unit, but that is just a matter of opinion, some may find the Hawk IV unit better looking. More a matter of taste I guess. (cost for the two about $40)

3 - A big difference is in the Tail rotor system. The SE tail rotor system has two radial and one thrust bearing in each blade grip while the IV has only one radial bearing. This can make a big difference in backward flight settings of the gyro, specially at high RPM. Also the bearings under such hard use will wear a lot faster on the IV because they are working a lot harder (no other bearings to share the workload with). This upgrade (CN2235) sells for $40.00

4 - The SE has bearings in the tail rotor bellcrank while the IV uses bushings. This minimizes any slop in this area of the control system. Easing the gyro/t-r servo workload alowing one to use a bit more gain befor wagging. (the HI3102B and the CNBB0360F bearings cost $19)

5 - Lower frames - these frames require the SE servo tray which has metal side plates so to upgrade to them would require the purchase of both the HW3112C sideframes and the HW3115A servo tray. Both of these would cost $52.00. The advantages of the metal lower frame is that they are more rigid, act as an additional heat sink so that you can run a little leaner (more power) without increasing engine temperature and these frames place the fuel tank under the main shaft instead of to the back as in the IV. This keeps the CG constant throughout the flight. They also give the heli a lower profile for easy fitment into the available scale fuselages.

These are all the differences from your upgraded IV proposal that I can think of at the moment. And I have already spent too much time typing but this should give you a bit more info from which to make your choices.
08-01-2002 Over year old.
 
 
concept1
Key Veteran
Location: Youngstown, OH

Hey, thanks oldfart.
from what I hear you are the expert on century.
Right now I am leaning towards the SE. it does have the tail I wish my SRX had, I believe the IV is almost identical to the Kyosho. will this heli roll quickly stock or will I need my KSJ paddles.
I am leaning on the SE with os .32SX I have a cheezy muffler I will run for now but will probably get either KSJ muffler or hatori. also anyone tried flybar stiffeners, I have a centruy set I got for my SRX but have never tried them.
also anyone know anything about the clutch, it looks just like the kyosho? and I have a new century ionized clutch for my concept, can anyone verify if these are the same. century no-longer lists the kyosho# so I can't reference.

thanks again
08-01-2002 Over year old.
 
 
oldfart
Elite Veteran
Location: Vancouver, Canada

More Answers

Concept1

1 - "roll quickly" is a relative term what is "quickly" to me may be too quick or too slow for you. But the big advantage of theis head is the experimenting with the bell / hiller ratios you can do with it. If you want a to speed up the cyclic of any heli there are a number of basic things you can do:

a) crank up the head speed, everything being equal, e.g. an 1800 head speed will have a far faster cyclic then will one of 1650. (Oh, that reminds me, the SE head comes with the more heavy duty 6mm feathering spindle with the thrust bearings instead of the stock Hawk IV 5mm spidle that does not have the thrust bearings) so one can really crank up the rotor sped on the SE without much worry.

b) Do not use the flybar weights

c) attach the washout A-Links to the shorter balls on the swashplate inner star and the control links that go to the bell mixers on the blade grips to the longer balls on the inner star.

This should give you a pretty fast roll rate.

I try to avoid the KSJ paddles on a solid axle head becaiuse they render this type of head far to pitchy in FFF.

P.S. You will find that the $39.95 Century CN3033 will give you as low a noise print and as good a power delivery with as broad a needle setting and RPM range as does the more expensive Hatori or KSJ.
08-01-2002 Over year old.
 
 
concept1
Key Veteran
Location: Youngstown, OH

thanks,
Well I am sititng here at work (obviously not getting much done) I am going to order the SE today. i had not planned on using the flybar weights, but sounds like I need to look over the the other options as well.
Thanks
I will probably post again next week when it shows up. looks like I will need to change my screen name also now.

Jon
08-01-2002 Over year old.
 
 
jimmyhua
Veteran
Location: Guam

oldfart!

c) attach the washout A-Links to the shorter balls on the swashplate inner star and the control links that go to the bell mixers on the blade grips to the longer balls on the inner star.


I finally sat down, with the manual and read the above.

That's it? That's so simple, I can't imagine how it can make a difference

How much of a difference will this make?

I have been trying to figure out how to attach the stuff, and the FalconSE manual isn't very clear what should go where. So then, I looked at the century website, and found that some heads are like above, and some are opposite!

I ended up going with A-arms to longer balls on swashplate inner star, cuz it looks nicer when the A-arms come straight down. But now, I know the other way will result in a faster roll rate! Thanks!

Jimmy
08-01-2002 Over year old.
 
 
the Wasp
rrProfessor
Location: Vt

buy the SE

the SE is a much better deal, I think the SE will make you heli experience much eazer than the 4 will !!

BUT, buy some Aerotech wooden main blades for your first 1 or 2 gallons of FF !!!!

Jim
08-01-2002 Over year old.
 
 
1 page350 viewsPOST REPLY
A Main Hobbies . Boca Bearings . Modefo's RC Helicopters

.
.
Century Hawk - Falcon - Raven - Predator > HELP hawk IV or SE
 PRINT TOPIC Advertisers 

Subscribe to This Topic

Saturday, November 22 - 12:27 pm - Copyright © 2000 - 2008 runryder.com | email | link to rr | runryder needs cookie