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Revolution Models . CarbonXtreme . Midland Helicopters

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e-Robbe Eolo > Pro LE Swash plate Geometry - confused
 
 
cyclic
Heliman
Location: Berkshire UK

So my Eolo Pro is finished or so I thought.

As a final job I completed the controller set up and then just thought about quickly checking the pitch curve/range....

During the build everything went fine.
Using the HS-81 servos on the swash with the servo arms at 90°, the swash plate was level at a Tx stick mid position-50%.
ATV's all equal at 100%, with the swash set to 65% Ailerons, 65% Elevator and 65% pitch.

All ball links and rods were made to length as specified in the build manual.
So what could be wrong???

Well my pitch range was -5° to plus 15°.
Looking at the amount of travel on the pitch lever ball links, there is no way I can off set 5° from the positive pitch side to the negative side to achieve a +10°/-10° set up I even broke a ball link trying to see how much travel was left.

Also moving the servo horns one spline lower, offsets the pitch close to where it needs to be (-2°) but then with cyclic inputs, the horns touch the chassis at negative pitch settings - no surprise there.

So how have you other guys got a +10°/-10° set up with the servo horns level as my link rods won’t allow it?


I moved from a H2 so I wouldn't get this kind of hassle – I'm now in need of inspiration as I'm really close to getting this bird in the air...
03-04-2005 Over year old.
 
 
Reesy
Key Veteran
Location: In the doghouse ... Nottingham UK

I must admit this thing is a pita
mine was something like +9 -15 after I did the 3rd bearing mod and heliup stuff
obviously yours might be different but might I suggest
1. Aim for swash in middle+level arms at 90 and pitch at 50%
adjust rod lengths to achieve this
2.
then and only then look at your blades and aim for 0deg

Whatever it says in't manual ..well

Ting Tong
.... ...... ...from Tooting
03-04-2005 Over year old.
 
 
darrens
Key Veteran
Location: United Kingdom

Hi Cyclic,
This point has be raised a number of times and I can only suggest you use the book as a "guide".

Make sure your radio has no trim or sub trim and set pitch/throttle and cyclic sticks at centre. Now set servo horns to 90.
a) Adjust the links from the servos to the swash so the swash is in the visable centre of travel.
b) Adjust links from swash to head to get 0 degrees at this setting.
c)Now check you have full travel on the swash without binding. If it is, adjust the links accordingly as in a).
d) Once the swash will travel freely, check again the pitch at centre sticks. Adjust to get 0 degrees at this point as in b)

You should now have equal pitch in pos and neg.

Can't believe how long I messed around trying to set it as per book, but this does sort it.
Hope this helps.

He who dies with the most toys is the winner!
03-04-2005 Over year old.
 
 
cyclic
Heliman
Location: Berkshire UK

Cheers so far.

I did search and read a lot about this in other threads. most related to 3rd bearing upgrade and cutting rod lengths.


I guess that I'm rather mistified that I splashed the cash on a pro LE and it's not quite come out in the wash as I'd expected.

As for adjusting ball links, I can not see that any amount is available to change and make much difference, sure 2mm max and that's it either your into the shaft of the rod or the rod end is breaking the links.

As far as I see it, to rectifying this I need to shorten the servo to swash link rod lengths. As above, 2mm max if you are lucky not to break the link is available.

Are you therefore suggesting I cut and re-thread the rods to achieve the lengths required?

If so I'm a bit surprised especially in the pro kit and more so in the LE kit.

Keep the advice coming, it's much appreciated.

##############
Can't wait for the better weather to come so I can blast the Raptor 50 about - no such problems.
03-04-2005 Over year old.
 
 
dnam
Veteran
Location: Herndon, VA - USA

Cyclic, I have just built my Eolo Pro SE as you can see in the other thread. It can be set up just fine to get +/- 10º pitch or even a lot more. As said above you need to adjust the links' mechanical setup so that at mid stick (50%) you have 0º pitch. Then you can use the swash pitch mix to get more or less range, and the pitch curve to get whatever you want in different stick positions. I think a few pictures can say a lot so here is how mine looks when at midstcik with 0º pitch.

Note that I used the shorter of the links (kit comes with long or short option here) going from the mixer arm to the flybar holder. The links' lenght from the swash down to the servo arms are what is specified in the manual. I just adjusted the long pushrods/links that come from the swash plate up to the mixer arm on the blade holder to get the 0º pitch at 50% midstick position.







03-05-2005 Over year old.
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
Reesy
Key Veteran
Location: In the doghouse ... Nottingham UK

Ah grasshopper
I forgot the 2 different pitch links supplied with the kit
mine was an original pro with german instructions
Pah sez I ..who needs instructions?

Guess who ended up with a long un on one side and short on t'other?

Ting Tong
.... ...... ...from Tooting
03-05-2005 Over year old.
 
 
cyclic
Heliman
Location: Berkshire UK

Dnam,

What servo's are you using?

I'm using Hitec HS-81's.
I think I'm getting warm in sorting this out.

The distance from the center or the servo spline/drive to the center of the lower servo fixing hole is 13mm.

Could you please tell me what this distance is on your set up.

I think that the HS-81 has it's drive point further to the center of the servo than the ones you show.
This on my set up has the effect of raising the swash up approximately 4-5mm. Hence my offset pitch problem.

Anyone else please feel free to comment, especially if you run the Hitec HS-81 servos.
03-05-2005 Over year old.
 
 
dnam
Veteran
Location: Herndon, VA - USA

I use Futaba S3150 digital servos. The distance from the center of the lower servo mounting screw to the center of the servo arm holder screw is around 10.5mm. If yours is 13mm and so the servo arms sits higher than mine you can always shorten the links coming from the servo arms to the swash.
03-05-2005 Over year old.
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
cyclic
Heliman
Location: Berkshire UK

Dnam,

Thanks for the prompt reply.
I've had my vernier calipers all over the swash and was sure the 3mm was due to the servo arm center being too high.

I was going to take a flier on this as I was just off to the lathe to part off 3mm from the servo to swash rods.

So Thanks as you've just confirmed it.

That's much appreciated.

I can see +/-10° before the evening is out...


What a great forum.
03-05-2005 Over year old.
 
 
cyclic
Heliman
Location: Berkshire UK

And so there it was.... +/- 10° pitch travel as the sun set.....

The answer (for me at least) being to trim 2mm from each end of rod S5037.
This allowed a 16mm length between the plastic links on the servo to swash connecting rods for use with my Hitec HS 81 servos.


Has anyone else with HS 81's trimmed the rods to get the same pitch range?
03-05-2005 Over year old.
 
 
darrens
Key Veteran
Location: United Kingdom

I'm using HS81's but not had to trim the link rod. The thread is just showing through on the white plastic links. Glad you got it sorted anyway.
Let us know how the first flight goes!

He who dies with the most toys is the winner!
03-05-2005 Over year old.
 
 
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e-Robbe Eolo > Pro LE Swash plate Geometry - confused
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