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Revolution Models . CarbonXtreme . Midland Helicopters

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e-Robbe Eolo > My Eolo Pro SE + badass Lehner
 
 
Tanner Hall
Senior Heliman
Location: Denver, CO

looks awesome, nam. nice job. now go get some video of that thing flying!
02-28-2005 Over year old.
 
 
cyclic
Heliman
Location: Berkshire UK

Dnam,

Looking good and neat on the edges too.
I like the white and red.


One thing I've learnt and that's that the theme seems to be paint on the outside, I think I will follow and try my hand at an orange yellow scheme on a std pro canopy.

The LE is OK but grey/silver has never been too hot on my heli colour list.


P.S As a tip, stickers love a hair dryer on low heat to tame them into all the different rolling contours such as on a canopy. A little stretch here a little stretch there, it works wonders.
02-28-2005 Over year old.
 
 
HugeOne
Key Veteran
Location: Quebec, Canada

Your heli is sweet!!!! Wish my eolo pro could be half as cool...

Raptor e620 w/V-bar, Tango 45-06, Phoenix 85HV, TrueRC 12S1P 4000mAh
02-28-2005 Over year old.
 
 
Reesy
Key Veteran
Location: In the doghouse ... Nottingham UK

Hi Dnam
Hmmm ..fantastic paint job ..
crap for visibility
The problem is that is just going to disappear once it's about 10ft away from you..
Sorry to say it lad but the alternative is to keep schtum and you suffer a crash.
The problem is with these tiddlers you have to rely on visual clues
Red is at the long end of the spectrum so will tend to disappear in "normal" light, the eye is 3 times more sensitive to green than red.

Grey is ..well grey.
I got a quick go with mine today (sorry no pics) once it's 3/4 of a football field away colours just mingle no matter how hi vis. so you need other visual clues.. just take it easy first few flights and maybe we can get a few others to chime in with their ideas.

FWIW My 3DMP has the Jan Red/White scheme, it works ..to a point but is large expanses of colour so works differently from what a Eolo will get ..

But there again the light's hardly optimum, right now

Ting Tong
.... ...... ...from Tooting
02-28-2005 Over year old.
 
 
Laurens
Key Veteran
Location: Oegstgeest, NL

That paintjob rocks

Flightpower, MA Fury, Trex 500
03-01-2005 Over year old.
 
 
Rchover
Key Veteran
Location: Helping Customers!

man that new canopy is sweeeeet looking nice JOB !!! great pictures

Jeremy
03-01-2005 Over year old.
 
 
dnam
Veteran
Location: Herndon, VA - USA

Thanks a lot guys! I really appreciate all the pos. comments!

Reesy, I am sure if I painted the whole heli neon green/yellow I could see it a lot better, but this is still better than if I just left it gray brown. I'll try to keep it near...

Today I set up all the heli's links, but man it's really hard to tackle those ball links without the right tool. (Still waiting for the Robbe ball link tool but it is on back order.)

Since the manual recommends max +14º pitch for normal mode, I set up the heli's swash mix to allow +/- 14º of movement. I really like how there is such a big range of movement possible up and down the mainshaft and also at the swashplate. My swash mix looks like this:

Aileron: 70%
Elevator: 70%
Pitch: 100%

Either of the above can be set higher as there is still room for movement but for now I think that is plenty good enough. There is no binding at all at the swash ball even if I push the cyclic stick to the corners. The only area with binding is the bottom of the swash guide when applying full elevator with near full pitch. I still have to deal with this later. I guess there are a few options, like filing away the plastic in the area of binding, buy the Heliup servo mount upgrade or change the white clevis links to balls....

I wish the wind would stop and all the snow melted so I could get a decent flight in!

I was down at the LHS today with the SE and everyone really liked it. The store owner actually liked it so much he might start carrying Eolo kits! Robbe USA should really do more marketing for their products to get the word out, as they really make some quality products!

BTW one thing I see that could be improved is putting more bearings in the boom to support the tail drive shaft. Right now there is only one bearing at the middle of the shaft but I think some tail vibrations could be eliminated by using two more bearing blocks. Problem is the bearing block S5163 can only be ordered from Europe at the moment. Jeremy, do you have any of these??
03-02-2005 Over year old.
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
CustomPC
Veteran
Location: Sydney, NSW - Australia

dnam,

The manual is wrong.

+14 is for the wooden blades. They haven't corrected the manual when they've included the carbon blades in the kits. Also make sure you are using the pushrod lengths specified for 3D flying.

I made exactly the same mistake. The result is a heli that will take off with the slightest pitch stick movement and won't come down if a breeze is blowing.

For general flying, -2 to +10 is heaps whilst -10 to +10 is for 3D and Aerobatics.

I
03-02-2005 Over year old.
 
 
Reesy
Key Veteran
Location: In the doghouse ... Nottingham UK

Hi Nam
Thanks for taking my comments on visiblity in the right spirit

100% on pitch "sounds" way too much, I think mine is around 65-70% and goes up and down like a yo yo.
Don't make the mistake of having too little negative pitch else you'll have a real job getting it down when the winds blowing.
You could try bending the tips together on standard ball link pliers but as I said if I angle them they just grip enought to click them off.

Ting Tong
.... ...... ...from Tooting
03-02-2005 Over year old.
 
 
Rchover
Key Veteran
Location: Helping Customers!

I was going to also say the 14 deg is wrong ....
I've been all over the importer to get the SE parts instock they should be in I hope SOON

Jeremy
03-02-2005 Over year old.
 
 
dnam
Veteran
Location: Herndon, VA - USA

Oh yeah, don't worry guys I won't be using +4º at low stick as the manual says. As it is set up now it is 0º at mid stick and + or - 14º at high or low stick (pitch curves are used like we all do to set up different flight modes). I was thinking the 14º is too much too, I just wanted to see if the motor can handle it. Mechanically it is possible to set it up at least without any fuss. I will probably take down the swash pitch mix to get +/- 10º.

Man, no snow today but the wind is crazy! The weather is conspiring against me!!! At least the heli is safe just sitting on the table...

Jeremy it will be great if you'll start carrying SE parts as the heli will not be too safe in my hands! I hate the Robbe site's 50 Euro shipping charge even if you buy only 2 small bearings...
03-02-2005 Over year old.
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
dnam
Veteran
Location: Herndon, VA - USA

Linkage setup

I just posted these pictures in another thread, but wanted everything to be in one place so I'll repost them here.

You need to adjust the links' mechanical setup so that at mid stick (50%) you have 0º pitch. Then you can use the swash pitch mix to get more or less range, and the pitch curve to get whatever you want in different stick positions. I think a few pictures can say a lot so here is how mine looks when at midstcik with 0º pitch.

Note that I used the shorter of the links (kit comes with long or short option here) going from the mixer arm to the flybar holder. The links' lenght from the swash down to the servo arms are what is specified in the manual. I just adjusted the long pushrods/links that come from the swash plate up to the mixer arm on the blade holder to get the 0º pitch at 50% midstick position.









Also you can read this other thread about pitch and throttle curves:
http://runryder.com/helicopter/t162349p1/

and for another thread about linkage and swash setup:
http://www.runryder.com/helicopter/t163488p1/
03-05-2005 Over year old.
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
tanasit
Heliman
Location: Philly

dnam,

With those great pictures you posted with text, I won't need the manual to assemble mine.

Thanks a bunch

03-05-2005 Over year old.
 
 
dnam
Veteran
Location: Herndon, VA - USA

Your welcome mate!

I just received the CF battery holder from www.rchover.com Here it is mounted. It's nice to have as the battery can be mounted a lot more securely.



You know how we always use Velcro? I was down at Office Depot and found this other fastener with interlocking mushrooms, and it works a lot better. It comes apart and snaps together a lot eaiser and holds better!

03-05-2005 Over year old.
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
tanasit
Heliman
Location: Philly

Another Vecro

http://www.helihobby.com/html/adhisves_and_lubes.html

This is a stretchable one and it works much better than the non stretch ones. Note that only the fuzzy size will stretch, so they sewed a short piece of the hook on one end. I also tried the other kind, called " GET-A-GRIP" also by Velcro that can be made a loop like you have and work fine too. However, there is another type that claims to be designed for holding the battery pack in the rc airplane. They will stick together very strong when I tested but in real life the pack get warm and the hook and loop fused together, thus you get a permanent ones
I use the stretchable one on Trex and like it so much, I ordered 2 more for the Eolo. For the Hornet which weight is concern, I use 3M super thin double sided velcro and it works great.

There are 3 more Velcro which are called "super strong" and they can be found at: Radi Shack (Red/clear color), Home Depot (grey one) and Hobby Lobby (which is called a servo velcro). These can only be removed when pull straight out away apart, not side way. This is good for hanging something on the wall where the weight of the item will only pull down. I think it is rated at 35 lbs per square inch.

The one that I use everywhere I need on the radio contriolled models is the industrial grade velcro. They are very strong and the glue stick well but you have to wait 24 hours after you stick one on for it to completely cure. It has wider working temperature range too. I use it to help secure the battery pack and even if the pack gets reallt warm, the glue never gave up.
03-05-2005 Over year old.
 
 
dnam
Veteran
Location: Herndon, VA - USA

I see you know your Velcros...

Today at last it was a nice day so I took out the Eolo for some flights. It turns out I had some glitches so I wasn't all that confident with the tail kicking out once in a while and swash tilting at random, so I only did a few circuits. I drew a crowd of kids too, man they can have so many questions!

I think the glithces were due to the antenna being routed so near the battery so I moced it so:


Ground test shows no glitching so far, so hopefully tomorrow will be a nice day to fly again, this time with a well behaved heli.
03-06-2005 Over year old.
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
tanasit
Heliman
Location: Philly

dnam,

This is what I usually did with my antenna wire on the helicopter: tie or tape or drill 2 holes and push it through the end to the lower part of the vertical tail fin, slightly pull the antenna from the tail to somewhere near the boom support root and tape it, now I wrap the left over on a piece of plastic tube (half of the wire go one direction and the other half go in the opposite direction). I never have glitches. In fact, I even wrapped it the way I just mentioned on the CF boom support of my Trex almost full length without any glitch at all. My system is Futaba 9Z and Hitec Electron 6. I don't know is your u-turn of the antenna on the struts is the culprit though. The Hitec RX even comes with the template so that you can wrap and shorten the wire by a good 18 inches.
03-06-2005 Over year old.
 
 
Rchover
Key Veteran
Location: Helping Customers!

I hate glitching!!!

alot of RF comes out of the ESC wire to the RX try installing a choke "glitch no more" or a ferite ring on this wire as close as you can to the ESC ....this really helps a great deal on solving most glitchs ...

also go PCM or use a Burg RX.....IMHO
(I don't want to start a FM vs PCM war)

Jeremy
03-06-2005 Over year old.
 
 
Reesy
Key Veteran
Location: In the doghouse ... Nottingham UK

I heard PPM is a no no with Eolo's, my chums original was plagued

I use a JR770 PCM never had a single glitch

Ting Tong
.... ...... ...from Tooting
03-06-2005 Over year old.
 
 
dnam
Veteran
Location: Herndon, VA - USA

Tail vibe problems solved!

Sorry for the double post but I'd like everything to be in one place.

As you know I have had major tail vibration issues. You can read about it here (http://www.runryder.com/helicopter/t161734p1/) along with other's tail problems and some solutions and tips.

Here is how I solved my tail vibes:

Today I received the new tail blades for my Eolo, but after trying them on (they were spot on with my magnetic balancer, so no need for balancing) the same tail vibrations were still there above 65% throttle!

I was getting really p***ed, but then a thought occured. It turns out the vibrations were caused by resonance. To change the internal frequency of the resonating elements I zip tied fuel tubing to all areas that were vibrating like mad. Now the heli is totally smooth up to 100% throttle!!!!!! Tomorrow looks like it will be fun!





03-13-2005 Over year old.
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
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e-Robbe Eolo > My Eolo Pro SE + badass Lehner
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