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Revolution Models . CarbonXtreme . Midland Helicopters

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e-Robbe Eolo > My Eolo Pro SE + badass Lehner
 
 
dnam
Veteran
Location: Herndon, VA - USA

Hi guys!

I finally received my Eolo Pro SE 2 days ago (thanks Jeremy! www.rchover.com )and now it is finished! Here are some pictures and the equipment I use. More text to follow when I have time. Only had a chance to hover and trim it out so far, but WOW, this thing feels really good! So smooth and stable!

My setup is the following at the moment:
Eolo Spirit Pro SE kit
Lehner 1930/6 motor (two motors in one 3483KV or 2013KV, running as first option with 19t pinion)
Kontronik 40-6-18 ESC
Shadow 1 receiver
Micro CSM SL560 gyro
Futaba 9254 tail servo
Futaba S3150 digital servos
JR9303 radio
3S TP2100 batteries (connected in 3S2P for 3483KV or 6S1P for 2013KV)



Very well made alu parts.


Everything is really precise and fits very nicely without any slop.




I wish a took a picture of the inside of the tail case. Very nice job! The beveled gears seat perfectly with very smooth movement. No slop at all in any of the tail linkages.


There's my broken T-rex canopy for size comparison for those not familiar with the Eolo.




I cut out this hole to allow the motor wires to push through.


Big motor! I cut off the black plastic "ledge" at the front so I could mount the batteries upright like this using velcro. The bottom of the canopy needs to be cut out as well to allow the batteries room, but they actually only protrude out a little. With the 9254 full sized servo at the back the heli balances pretty much perfectly like this.


Once again everything is real slop free on the head too. Love all the bearings, o-rings, spacers and washers inside the blade grips! The Futaba S3150 fit perfectly and give a very controlled feel to the heli.




I made a Y-connector to connect two 3S1P TP2100s.




You can see the G4 Voltguard and the tail servo here. I opted to use a ball link from my Freya X-spec instead of the original linkage. With the 9254 the original white snap on linkage would have made the tail pushrod too long. Also the ball raises the tail pushrod for better geometry - now the pushrod is parallel to the boom in it's full lenght.




Needs a little paint stil.


Just got to love the Shadow 1 receiver and the Micro SL560 - the best gyro in my opinion apart from maybe the Fut 601. Since I bought my first SL560 I have changed all my gyros to this one.
02-25-2005 Over year old.
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
dnam
Veteran
Location: Herndon, VA - USA

I just realized the G4 Voltguard is now called the G4 Lipoguard. It's really neat and man is it bright! Here are some pictures all taken with the flash on! Very easy to see even in bright sunlight. My helis look like the real ones flying with these as they flash every few seconds making it look like the flashing lights on the real ones!

It's on my T-rex here:




http://www.spartan-rc.com/products/lipoguard_g4/g4.htm
02-25-2005 Over year old.
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
demosa
Veteran
Location: Tigard, Oregon, U.S.A.

Looks nice !
What pitch range do you get ?
Also do you have an binding when you go full pitch
and full forward elevator ?
Have you flown it yet ? I've just installed the S3150's on mine
and I'm curious whether I'll notice any difference or not ...

Thanks,
Demos
02-26-2005 Over year old.
 
 
dnam
Veteran
Location: Herndon, VA - USA

I only hovered a pack today to see what it feels like. I just looked at the pitch ranges and with my servos' ATVs set to 150% I get +9.5º and -15º which is a range of nearly 25º. At any pitch even if I move the cyclic stick the one of the corners there is no binding. Maybe a little at full negative pitch when the swash is totally down and one of the long mixer pushrods tounch one of the screws on the headblock, but it is very minor. I still need to adjust my pitch linkages to get 0º at 50% pitch stick position but you can see the big range anyway here.
02-26-2005 Over year old.
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
demosa
Veteran
Location: Tigard, Oregon, U.S.A.

Hm, this is strange....
When I go to full positive pitch and full forward elevator,
the rear link (the one that goes to the antirotation ball)
touches the servo bridge ... I'm at 100% ATVs and
60% on all three swash functions.
I can't see what is the difference. My servo arms are the
same as in your pictures ... servos are the same ...
02-26-2005 Over year old.
 
 
dnam
Veteran
Location: Herndon, VA - USA

Oh yes, to CustomPC. I have a Freya X-spec heli as well and it turns out they give you 5mm OD, 4mm ID main blade brass inserts with the kit, so perfect fit for the Lehner! I drilled a 3mm hole through this insert so the grubscrew could go through. Also grinded a flat onto the Lehner's shaft, so now I can just secure the pinion without using any loctite on the shaft. This was needed as the 19t pinion is so big it does not fit through the hole on top of the frame. First you need to mount the motor on top and then insert the pinion through the bottom hole on the frame onto the motor shaft! It is a little tricky to position it right and tighten the grubscrew this way but can be done with a little time.
02-26-2005 Over year old.
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
dnam
Veteran
Location: Herndon, VA - USA

Quote 
Hm, this is strange....
When I go to full positive pitch and full forward elevator,
the rear link (the one that goes to the antirotation ball)
touches the servo bridge ... I'm at 100% ATVs and
60% on all three swash functions.
I can't see what is the difference. My servo arms are the
same as in your pictures ... servos are the same ...


Oh yes you are right! I am sorry, I did not look at the back at the antirotation guide the first time. I was only looking at the swash and since the antirotation guide can flex out of position the swash still moved to the right position. Anyway I can see it binding now at the bottom of the guide.

Actually come to think of it there is a fix for this. Take a look at RC Hover.
http://www.rchover.com/inc/pdetail?v=1&pid=303

This Heliup upgrade servo holder will do the job. I think I'll have to spend some more money too.
02-26-2005 Over year old.
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
Reesy
Key Veteran
Location: In the doghouse ... Nottingham UK

Man that is one sweet heli
I'm a bit interested why you chose the 3S2P option? I'll be quite happy to bet the 6S will work better Have you any links to the Lehner's? I have a 1530 but can only find German translation thru google websites.

Keep us posted how it flies, FWIW it took me AGES to get those pitch links to give me 50% at midstick, problerm is disconnecting the whole bang shoot to make adjustments (manily the rear servo) also invest in a packet of the little links as they are easy to break or distort.

Ting Tong
.... ...... ...from Tooting
02-26-2005 Over year old.
 
 
dnam
Veteran
Location: Herndon, VA - USA

Quote 
Man that is one sweet heli


Hehe , it looks cool doesn't it, and the canopy is not even finished yet. I should have time later today or tomorrow to totally finish the heli.

I am sure I will be changing to 6S1P setup later (have already made another Y-connector for the batts). I just did not want to resolder the bottom of the Lehner just yet. Actually this will be a good comparison to fly it with 3S2P now annd switch to 6S1P later.

For Lehner info in English go to www.bk-electronics.com They have a shop too with all the Lehner models with almost all winds. No 1930 with 6 wind though. For that I went to www.finedesignrc.com They have a sale now and the 1930/6 only costs $190!! Awesome price for this motor AND they have it in stock here in the US!

Quote 
...problerm is disconnecting the whole bang shoot to make adjustments (manily the rear servo) also invest in a packet of the little links as they are easy to break or distort.


Yeah, I was looking at the ball links and can't really take them off using the ball link pliers I have. BTW does Robbe make ball link tools specifically for their links?
02-26-2005 Over year old.
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
dnam
Veteran
Location: Herndon, VA - USA

So anyone painted their Eolo Pro SE yet?

I was wondering if anyone has pictures of their SE canopy painted? After one puts on the stickers the only area that needs painting is the nose and bottom. Here is a picture from Cyclic's gallery:


I am at a real dilemma here as to what color the unstickered areas should be. I don't want black as already the heli doesn't have bright colors on it, so it would be nice to have a color that is very visible. How would orange, yellow or red look? Please post a pciture of yours if you have one painted! Thanks!
02-26-2005 Over year old.
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
Tanner Hall
Senior Heliman
Location: Denver, CO

why not go yellow like your raptor 90se (i mean t-rex)?
02-26-2005 Over year old.
 
 
dnam
Veteran
Location: Herndon, VA - USA

Hmm, maybe. But I already broke the T-rex canopy so maybe I should go with a different theme time with my helis for better luck. I already bought the Tamiya metallic red people use for their 3DMP canopies, should look interesting on this one (I'll use it on the canopy too). Still need to decide on other color for nose. Maybe white.

Quote 
BTW does Robbe make ball link tools specifically for their links?

To answer my own question I bought the Robbe ball link tool from www.robbeusa.com

02-27-2005 Over year old.
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
Reesy
Key Veteran
Location: In the doghouse ... Nottingham UK

Hi Dnam
sorry I was a bit slow replying, I use the standard ball link pliers, just angle them slightly to decrease the gap. Also I went thro the links with my ball sizing dremel, the attachment that looks like a small ball, just run it gently round inside of cup.

My canopy was reddish pink with black WS and I've got the red paint for my MP but I'm going for a lighter orange/yellow remeber a couat of white as backing like the RC car boys use

Ting Tong
.... ...... ...from Tooting
02-27-2005 Over year old.
 
 
cyclic
Heliman
Location: Berkshire UK

Pleased to see a picture of my heli in a thread.

I was sceptical with the stickers only approach, so my first thought was to go yellow. So with a piece of canopy off cut I tried yellow.

The problem is that the canopy in the Pro LE kit is smoke finished and so the test piece in yellow came out drab grey/yellow - not at all impressive.

Needless to say it would be a waste of time as you'd not benefit a great deal with a yellow high visibility heli as it would be low vis grey/yellow.

Still unconvinced, I will fly mine with the canopy as it is. If I do not get on with it, I will get a clear Pro canopy and paint it yellow as I first intended.
02-27-2005 Over year old.
 
 
Reesy
Key Veteran
Location: In the doghouse ... Nottingham UK

Or just paint it on't outside like wot I ended up doing with mine

Ting Tong
.... ...... ...from Tooting
02-27-2005 Over year old.
 
 
cyclic
Heliman
Location: Berkshire UK

Paul,

Please put a picture in your gallery, I'd be interested to see how it turned out.
02-27-2005 Over year old.
 
 
dnam
Veteran
Location: Herndon, VA - USA

Yes, definitely paint from the outside. With modern paints one doesn't even need to sand the surface, the paint will still stick well.
02-27-2005 Over year old.
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
Laurens
Key Veteran
Location: NL, behind my computer

Eolo's rock. I got mine yesterday.

Team RC-TEK
Team Airthunder
02-27-2005 Over year old.
 
 
dnam
Veteran
Location: Herndon, VA - USA

Cool! Maybe you can take a pic too when you are finished with it.
02-28-2005 Over year old.
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
dnam
Veteran
Location: Herndon, VA - USA

My paint job

Ok so I decided on the color and went down to the LHS to get some Tamiya paint cans. I went with the Metallic Red (PS-15) and Pearl White (TS-45). The red was for polycarbonate and the white for plastics (didn't find this color for poly) but nevertheless both paints stuck fine. I actually ended up using white primer just to make sure no paint chips after all the hassle.

I put on all the stickers first like you see on Cyclic's heli above and then masked it off. These are pretty big stickers and you have to adjust a lot to get all the wrinkles and such out so I didn't want to put them on when it was already painted.

Here before Pearl White paint.


After white ready for Metallic Red. I found the Glad Press'n Seal plastic wrap to be great to mask off the big area.


And here she is all painted but without clearcoat. Only stickers I put on after the paint were the two black ones for the "air inlets".


TA-TAAAAA! Now with clearcoat (I sparyed the clear over the stickers as well) and dried!







Outside under natural light. Unfortunately it is snowing and so no inflight pics. How do you guys like it? It seems like it will be very visible.
02-28-2005 Over year old.
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
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e-Robbe Eolo > My Eolo Pro SE + badass Lehner
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