We all know there is a tremendous amount of slop at the bushings on the frame used for the elevator arm. Have any of you had any success reducing or eliminating it? My Rex has great aileron cyclic response, but it noticable hunts forward and back due to the elevator cyclic slop issue.
01-08-2005 Over year old.
Jarod Veteran Location: USA
You got that staight. I have used locktight around the bushings to keep them from sliding around but it didnt improve things to much. We must get this slop out of the elevator. Outdoors its not a problem. But if you want to hover and test out something in the house. Forget about it becasue of the elevator.
01-08-2005 Over year old.
vinrx7 Veteran Location: Americas finest city
would CA hold it in place? I never tried to glue plastic to metal before. Maybe a dab of JB.
lot of slop in the elevator arm ball joints too. Gotta order the replacement set ball joints K10198A
Started looking at trying to get rid of the slop by shimming etc, but all too much effort for too little return, if you have eCCPM mixing in your radio its the only way to go... have no problems taking off and hovering on the spot now, before would need at least 2m in each direction before taking off to be safe.
I just CAed the bushing into the pitch control arm and it helped a whole lot. I probably have 1/3 the slop that I had before it was CAed in. I know CCPM would get the rest out, but I'm holding out for now. I am able to hover it in my house inside about a 12" radius - good enough for a while.
01-08-2005 Over year old.
3De Senior Heliman Location: Australia
hehe, just hide the expencive furniture
01-08-2005 Over year old.
vinrx7 Veteran Location: Americas finest city
yeah, i just glued it and got rid of some of the play. Bad weather so i could only hover around in the house. Seems a little better.
I've had a difficult time trying to figure this elevator issue. After fore cyclic the swash never returns to "neutral" It seems to get stuck. Could you guys post a quick pic of the areas you CAed......
thanks in advance
Luis
01-09-2005 Over year old.
vinrx7 Veteran Location: Americas finest city
quags,
the ball links are probably real loose. You could replace them like alot of people have been doing with the newer version or try the "lighter trick". Make sure its not binding though. If thats the case then dont do the "lighter trick". As far as the collective pitch control arm. You glue the control arm collar or bushing to where it pops into the arm. I cant post a picture cause its not monday so pull out your manual. Its page 7 item #91. I glued the outside diameter of that brass or copper bushing and put it back in. I did it to both sides but i think its only the control side that matters. All it took was a tiny bit and im sure you know not to get any on the inside.
Thanks for the info. I have the new ball links (purple). The main problem is the darn fore aft cyclic. It doesn't seem to center very well. I'm going to order a couple of new servos (probably HS-56) to see if I can make it work better in addition to the CA idea you guys came up with. Also, I have a CNC swash on the way. I find the plastic one way too stiff ( swash that is )
thanks again,
Luis
01-09-2005 Over year old.
vinrx7 Veteran Location: Americas finest city
the stock swash sucks. MicroHeli makes a good replacement standard and ccpm. Its aluminum and weighs less than the stock plastic one. No more binding. Did you check to see if your servos center without a load. Take the links off and see if they center.
There was I guy I swear that had put ball bearings ,was at rcgroups,I cant find the link the mods have the search function locked out right now.
CP HB,MTM 400DF,feigao edf 40 tail
01-09-2005 Over year old.
quags Heliman Location: Miami, FL
vinrx7
I took everything off. There is some collision at the flybar control arm but it does not bind. I think most of the problem is the tightness of the swash ball and the slop in the pitch control arm bushings.
01-10-2005 Over year old.
Jarod Veteran Location: USA
CNC swash doesnt fix the problem. I have 2 of them. Different servos wont help much as the slop really isnt from the servo. The bushings in the collective lever need to be secured. Mine had a tiny gap in them and was conrtibuting to the problem. After securing the bushings it helped a little. But still not the 100% answer im searching for.
01-10-2005 Over year old.
WEAVERS32 Heliman Location: WALNUTPORT PA
Elevator SlopJarod, I put a flanged bronze bushing from an old r/c10 car in this spot . Aprox. 8mmx 5mm .I had to sand a little of the plastic to get a good clearance but it tightened it right up. I 'm thinking it was off the front wheel but i don't have cars anymore. I plan to go to the lhs to see because they had carried lots of bearings to replace the bushings. That would work real sweet to have bearings there-smooth everything out.
01-10-2005 Over year old.
vinrx7 Veteran Location: Americas finest city
One more thing that will help cyclic control. I pulled the flybar to one side and lightly sanded the area that goes into the head. The flybar should be able to move in pitch with a light touch (when not connected to any links). I found that mine was very tight in that housing and sanding it made for smoother movement. It should move smoothly.
Today at the public AMA field where I live I was able to get one the Futaba Sponsored Heli Pilots to fly my stock rex. He bitched and complained and told this is horrible. He has a T-Rex and knows how to fly. He teased me about how much expo I had setup. I was running -30% with the ATV set at 75 for cyclic. He changed it to low and high rates. Im still only flying in the low rates and still able to do aerobatics. I cant imagine flying with high rates on high rates are 100 ATV 0 expo.
Here is what the he did and it made all the difference in the world. I bet like me most of you are running some pretty obsene expo numbers? Maybe not all of you becasue you some of you know how to setup a radio better then us. The Futaba rep said expo is bad you dont want it if you can help it. I freaked and said it wont be flyable without it. He shhhhd me and told me watch. With my hands over my mouth I watched him take out the expo lower the ATV to 50 with 0% expo, He lifted it off and dipped it side to side back to forward. Ohh he excalims, thats better, so much better he telling me. He lands and says now you go fly it. I lifted off and was very cautios and after a few seconds I noticed how it more stable it seemed. I started saying ohh man wow it does fly better and its more responsive and not twitchy and hardly any elevator slop noticable now. He tried to explain that expo deaden the sticks causing that delay we are associating with slop. There is still some slop but this setup helps allot with that.
01-10-2005 Over year old.
elco Senior Heliman Location: Arcadia, CA
Hmm. 50% ATV. Wouldn't that compromise your roll speed? I like how fast My TREX rolls. BTW, my ATV is 100% and yes I do use expo. It's at -30%.
Cheers,
elco
01-10-2005 Over year old.
vinrx7 Veteran Location: Americas finest city
Thats weird, i thought it was the other way around. I thought reducing the expo would give more delay in a sense or a slow response. Mine is at around 50%. Ill try lowering it more and see what happens.
I almost wouldnt let the Futaba Sponsored Rep do it. I have always used expo. I promise for me it really helped out. You should use low and high rates if you radio has it. Low is for taking off and landing. High rates is for aerobatics. I want someone to try it and come back and tell me WOW becasue thats what I thought. I just flew an entire pack in my office area never leaving my hovering position. It was stationary. I could have never been so precise in a hover without that radio change. Try it be carefull I dont want anyone to smack up there heli. The Futaba Sponsored Rep who I spoke does this for a living. He was right it made a huge difference.
