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Robbe Cuatro - Millennium - Nova - Dyna-X > The SE is here! Building question

flatspin
Veteran
Location: H.V. Pa.

Just got my SE kit. Getting ready to put it together. Anything to watch out for? Any tips?
Thanks guys!

06-04-2002 Over year old.

RCMarket
Key Veteran
Location: Belgium , Europe

Main tip

Nothing special if you putting 60-70 engine.
large engine will need some changes.
the heli is great so just enjoy building it.
you will miss it later. so simple, so rigid.
read the instructions , follow them and you will have a piece of art

Alex (Formerly Known as Futurac )

06-04-2002 Over year old.

mainblades
Senior Heliman
Location: Roy, UT USA

Make sure the bearings are seated all the way into the bearing strips/rails. Out of the box, mine were not.

If you haven't already ordered a shoulder nut for you particular engine. Order one NOW. Makes life easier.
For OS http://www.ronlund.com/Merchant2/me...duct_Code=S4543

For YS http://www.ronlund.com/Merchant2/me...ct_Code=S4543YS

When putting in the bevel gear that runs against the crown gear, push it down hard. The meshing will wear in and be smooth. Otherwise you'll strip the crown gear.

Don't use petroleum based grease on the damper O-rings use a synthetic grease.

After assembly, fill the T/R gear case with a synthetic high speed grease as well. Refill periodically. Tri-flow grease works well for both this and O-ring dampers.

Follow the measurements on the Nova instructions for initial tail rotor meshing, it should get you close. This should be smooth. http://www.ronlund.com/nova/tail_gearbox.jpg

For Stock canopy, if you can find ABS sheets of plastic, reinforce the lower canopy mounting hole.

Replace Schluter/Robbe 2mm ball links on T/R and throttle pushrods with Rocket City #77D ball links. Not required just a smoother and IMHO a little more durable link.

Greg Bartel
AMA 70898

06-04-2002 Over year old.

z11355
rrMaster
Location: 10000 is enough time wasted.

If you build the tailbox w/ the 6.5mm of distance
between the edge of the shaft and the collar,
you will end up w/ a very asymmetrical t/r
throw. You really want the tailshaft to be basically
flush w/ the edge of the balll bearing when its all
assembled.

When building the pitch compensator, there
is NOT supposed to be special washer
between 1025 and the 4035 bearing.

If you look closely (VERY closely), you will
see the washers are slightly beveled. Many
people report best results w/ the beveled
side toward the bearings.

You might want to order 2x S3596, 2x S4410
and 8 ball links and replace the fixed length
double links w/them so you have some
adjustability.

There is a right way and a wrong way to
install the clutch on the S4120

06-04-2002 Over year old.

HOMEPAGE

flatspin
Veteran
Location: H.V. Pa.

Looking over the manual, have a question about the (new?), double o-ring torque tube support. There are two sleeves that go over the torque tube at both ends that are supposed to be epoxied to the torque tube itself. On to the sleeves, the manual states epoxing the o-ring holder bearings. I am wondering if epoxy is the best choice here? Maybe I should use JB-weld or red locktite? What do you guys think?

06-04-2002 Over year old.

z11355
rrMaster
Location: 10000 is enough time wasted.

I used Loctite 609 (not red) in that step.

Make sure the tube and everything else is
degreased beforehand.

The only upgrade that most people suggest
is the metal boom support clamp. The kit
plastic one is lame and doesn't hold.

06-04-2002 Over year old.

HOMEPAGE

Maxx
Key Veteran
Location: Shreveport Louisana

One thing that strikes me as I've just come back from flying my SE's...the tank is a major PITA, those 45 degree bevels won't let you run a decent length of fuel line! Aerotrend and Prather lines are too stiff and the header (yes I have YS engines and I run Headers!) used to get nothing but air after 2/3 of the tank! Find a light gauge fuel tubing to put in the tank and put a heavy klunk on it! My klunk line is 4" long and will not ride up on the 45 degree inclines...gets ALL the fuel out of the tank! BTW, when you put the tank togheher the cap has 6 "splines" on it...you need to make sure the cap splines are not horizontal when you mate the front tray to the main frames unless you like to cuss, discuss and fuss! Other pithy bits 'o wisdon as I (re)discover them to follow...

Chris

06-08-2002 Over year old.

RCMarket
Key Veteran
Location: Belgium , Europe

Fuel tank

Small suggestion.
use a header tank, you will stop running air after 2/3 of the tank.
there is no problems with this tank, i wish in the millenium was the same.
its just because the SE designed to fly Knife edges more then normal flight.(

)

Alex (Formerly Known as Futurac )

06-08-2002 Over year old.

mainblades
Senior Heliman
Location: Roy, UT USA

Fuel Tank

I agree. But my solution was to put the same Clunk line that Hayes uses in their tanks. Hayes is the maker of the litte 2 oz. tanks that alot of companies include with their header tank systems, whatever new fangled mounting braket is. Anyway Hayes sells prepackaged 4 ft lenghts of their clunk line. I replace ALL of my clunk lines with this stuff, whatever the application. It's flexible yet thick walled. In addition I used a similar triangular cluck as the Milli. This helps in getting as much fuel out as possible. Some have said that felt covered clunck included with the SE "Wicks" up the fuel. Maybe so, but I didn't like the set up.
Here's a link to the Hayes clunk line on the Tower web site.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bi...=1&I=LXK824&P=7

Greg Bartel
AMA 70898

06-10-2002 Over year old.

ncpdheli
Senior Heliman
Location: New York, Long Island

S/E tip

A old timer from many years ago gave me this hint with how he used to lube his bearings. Take STP oil treatment and heat it up in a small metal type pot until it gets like water then put the bearings in there and then let them sit in the STP until it cooled off, take the bearings out clean off the excess STP, and the STP gets inside the bearings and works great, better than any grease I have ever used. Try it on one and you will see and be hooked.

06-13-2002 Over year old.

fritzthecat
Key Veteran
Location: New Orleans

You can go to my page and look up the Futura pages. Lots of hints and tips there. The SS supplemental manual applies to the SE too.
Under Helis / Robbe / Futura SE and SS.

'Send Money, Women and Guns!'

06-14-2002 Over year old.

freestyle
Veteran
Location: Redmond WA USA

Boom and tail rotor gearbox

I'm replacing my SE's tail boom, and the gearbox is an EXTREMELY tight fit. The last boom was tight too, but I was able to make it fit OK by sanding down the O.D. of the gearbox a little bit. With this boom, it's even worse... I can't imagine how bad it would be if the gearbox weren't already pre-sanded. What's going on? Is there a quality-control issue with the I.D. of the booms? Or is the mold for the gearbox just reaching the end of its lifespan?

I forced the box 3/4 into the boom but it just occurred to me that getting it back out is going to be near impossible. Anyone got ideas on how to handle this?

I'm gonna try to pull the gearbox out and sand it down some more, if I can. Or maybe just pound it home and accept the fact that it's not coming out without a dremel...

06-15-2002 Over year old.

HOMEPAGE

Ehab
Senior Heliman
Location: Beautifll San Jose, CA, Good old USA

Try putting the gearbox in a plastic sealed bag in the freezer. Then put the boom in 200 degrees oven or use a heat gun. They should fit easily now. Taking them apart is another story!!!!

06-15-2002 Over year old.

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Robbe Cuatro - Millennium - Nova - Dyna-X > The SE is here! Building question

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