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Ron’s HeliProz South . Century Helicopter . MTA Hobbies

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e-Mikado Logo 400 500 600 > Help wanted: ESC and Motor runs too hot
 
 
ThomasJoehnk
Senior Heliman
Location: Denmark, Copenhagen

Hi

I am hovering my Logo 10 on 4s4p LiPo using Kontronik 600-18 motor and Future 18.46K ESC.

For many months everything have worked perfectly. BUT for the last couple of weeks my ESC has shut down earlier and earlier into a flight because of overheating.

I use a flat 100% throttle curve and my ESC is setup to use governor mode.

Everything on the helicopter runs very smooth. Yesterday I disassembled and reassembled the tailrotor just to look for any problems.

I don't have an infrared temperature thing, but motor and ESC gets so hot that I can't touch them. Batteries gets warm too but not more.

The problem persists even though I fly without canopy!!! I have my ESC the usual place in front of the motor with the heat sink pointing upward.

Two weeks ago after a full flight I still put almost 8000mAh into the batteries. So I think my batteries are ok.

Please help - Any clue?

:-) Thomas



Two Joker II's, MiniJoker, Acrobat SE (and a full size 90.000 cubic foot hot air balloo
04-22-2004 Over year old.
 
 
Saint728
Elite Veteran
Location: Sydney Australia Sponsored by: Quick UK

Your problem could be caused from the motor over heating? I have heard that brushless motors can get damaged after they get too hot? I use a micro brushless computer fan to keep my motor cool. Even with the canopy on my motor is only slightly warm and I can keep my finger on as long as I want. My ESC doesn't get hot either. Hope you find out what the problem is?

Take Care,
Cheers, Patrick

MA Fury Extreme,YS 91,MPII,V-Blades,601
Raptor 50 SE,OS50 Hyper,MPII,QUK Head,TT600 Blades,601
04-22-2004 Over year old.
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
ThomasJoehnk
Senior Heliman
Location: Denmark, Copenhagen

I don't think my motor has been to hot to demag (which is as far as I have read very hot). When I run it at 100% throttle for 5 minutes without load the ESC barely gets warm and the motor gets hot (touchable for up to 5-8 seconds before I have to move my finger).

How can I check wether my motor has demagnitised?

:-) Thomas



Two Joker II's, MiniJoker, Acrobat SE (and a full size 90.000 cubic foot hot air balloo
04-23-2004 Over year old.
 
 
Ninjak2k
Senior Heliman
Location: Centreville, VA

Thomas, running the motor at 100% throttle without load is a bad idea as it has to dissipate all of the energy itself since there is no load. It's no wonder it got so hot.

As for it getting hot while flying, I don't have an answer for that. Lot of different setups being used out there; I'm trying to find a widely accepted one for the Logo in my future.

~Dan
04-23-2004 Over year old.
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
jdowdle
Heliman
Location: Orlando, FL

Thomas, I have a logo 10 with hacker B50 and TP 4s4p 8000.

I get about 15 minutes of hover using only 4000 mah about.

Has your run time changed? Why do you completely delpete the battery? are you running over 30 minutes? have you always ran over 30 minutes? could that be the problem?

Many of these setups seem to get hotter the longer you run. Mine got hotter when I switched to lipoly, and I had to cut the pinion size.

Hope this is of some help.

Jim
04-24-2004 Over year old.
 
 
ThomasJoehnk
Senior Heliman
Location: Denmark, Copenhagen

Hi

I think I will give the Hacker B50 15L a try. I don't know wether my motor is the problem - if not I will just end up having two fine motors.

I don't deplete my batteries - I always stop right when I hear/feel the RPM drops.

I see EspritModels sell the Hacker for $189. Is this the best deal I can find (even though 189 is already a good deal)?

:-) Thomas



Two Joker II's, MiniJoker, Acrobat SE (and a full size 90.000 cubic foot hot air balloo
04-25-2004 Over year old.
 
 
lawrenmd
Senior Heliman
Location: Orlando FL.

Solder Joints

This may help, I had a similar problem with my Hacker/Schulze set up. It turned out to be a bad connection from the esc to the motor, give it a check.

Dave
04-25-2004 Over year old.
 
 
JerelZ
Heliman
Location: Oak Ridge TN

I've been wrestling with a similar problem with my Logo 10; Kontronik 600-18/Schulze controller. After repairs from an inflight failed T/R pitch plate or belt, my flight time start decreasing until after only 90 sec. or so the controller would kick out. I went through the heli looking for drag and found nothing suspicious. Both motor and controller were running very hot but <150F

Since then I've changed to an Aveox/Phoenix 60 setup that flew fine for ~10 flights then it started kicking out after less than a minute. Neither motor or controller were hot with this motor/controller combination.

I can't believe both setups have a problem but I can't find anything that would be creating enough drag to cause both to over-current and drop out.

If anyone has a solution to the original post and/or this one...I'd like to hear it.

Thanks,

Jerel
04-27-2004 Over year old.
HOMEPAGE  
 
 
ThomasJoehnk
Senior Heliman
Location: Denmark, Copenhagen

I am away from home right now, but will try to resolder all joints when I come back in a few days. I will keep you updated.



Two Joker II's, MiniJoker, Acrobat SE (and a full size 90.000 cubic foot hot air balloo
04-27-2004 Over year old.
 
 
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e-Mikado Logo 400 500 600 > Help wanted: ESC and Motor runs too hot
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